[red02gt]

I had the local college replace the stock one that lasted 120,000 miles (with the stage one) as it started slipping under normal use.

They failed to machine the flywheel.

CLUTCH CHATTER GALORE FROM DAY ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THEY SAID MACHINING WAS NOT NECESSARY???????

I DISAGREE!!!!!

When it failed (at 18,000 miles) it went from 100% to about 20% immediately and in the 8 mile ride home it ended up at 0% just as I pulled in front of the house.

The wife had to use the van to get it the last 25 feet into the driveway.

Just so you know, the chattering started calming down at about 17,500 miles!!!

I guess that was that something like HINT HINT???

It's been sitting there for a few months now waiting for the cash to get it done right!

I have no clue how long it would have lasted if the flywheel had been machined, but I bet it would have been much longer.

I think I'll try the stage 2 this time.

 

[red02gt]

THEY ARE CORRECT?

REALLY?

I told them the clutch would chatter without a fresh face on the flywheel before I even went out to start the car, and I was right.

This thing chattered more than if I had installed a full race metallic puck friction discs on it!

I'm talking tear out the motor mounts and do damage to the transmission CHATTERING!

The only way I could take off without chattering was to dump the clutch and spin the tires!

Once again ------- REALLY????

So, you're also telling me that there is no reason to machine a flywheel that has over 120,000 miles on it no matter how grooved the face, no matter how bad the hot spots are?

Every chattering clutch I ever worked on were where the customer would try and save money by doing it themselves and skipped the “machine the flywheel” step!

Machine the flywheel, problem solved!

Do you laugh at all those fools who toss good money out the window doing a brake job when they foolishly machine their rotors and drums?

BYW, just to satisfy the wife, I went to the dealership and 2 other shops that are business associates of the wife, and they confirmed that they should have machined the flywheel.

Actually, you are the first person I have found, (other than the college shop) who seems to think it's OK not to machine a flywheel when doing a clutch job.

AND, I have installed various stages of performance clutches on a number of vehicles throughout the years so I know what to expect.

In all my years working as a mechanic, there are several things that holds true.

On of them is that if there is a metal friction surface and a new friction device being installed against it (Brake pads, clutch disc, brake shoes, OR WHATEVER) YOU MUST MACHINE THE CONTACT SURFACE!

Another is never trust advertised compression ratios, but that's a 55 gallon drum sizes can of worms I could go on for days discussing.

 

[red02gt]

I had the local college replace the stock one that lasted 120,000 miles (with the stage one) as it started slipping under normal use.

They failed to machine the flywheel.

CLUTCH CHATTER GALORE FROM DAY ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THEY SAID MACHINING WAS NOT NECESSARY???????

I DISAGREE!!!!!

When it failed (at 18,000 miles) it went from 100% to about 20% immediately and in the 8 mile ride home it ended up at 0% just as I pulled in front of the house.

The wife had to use the van to get it the last 25 feet into the driveway.

Just so you know, the chattering started calming down at about 17,500 miles!!!

I guess that was that something like HINT HINT???

It's been sitting there for a few months now waiting for the cash to get it done right!

I have no clue how long it would have lasted if the flywheel had been machined, but I bet it would have been much longer.

I think I'll try the stage 2 this time.

Well it's over a year later and now I had another local shop pull it and the flywheel was like the grand canyon meets the rocky mountains!

The flywheel was DESTROYED, as in not enough left to machine.
Also the brass bushings that were a TSB, that I bought and gave to them to install WERE NOT ON THE SHAFT!
The old worn out plastic bushings were still there.
Also, the clutch fork lever on the shaft was bent!
It seems they neglected to remove the lever arm from the shaft so it can pivot enough to allow the trans to come out.
If not, the arm hits the case and they had to use pry bars to force the engine and trans apart (trans to block had pry marks all over them).

Now, with the bent shaft arms along with the throw out bearing not being installed properly, not machining the flywheel all came together to create an early death for the clutch!

Something else that was strange.
The clutch I gave them was a YELLOW ACT part# HY1-HDSS
The clutch that came out was BLUE looking like a Spec clutch

 

[red02gt]

What kind of power are you making that you would need a stage 1 on an Elantra?

You don't need to be putting out a lot of power to need a better clutch.

If you ever drove through San Francisco going up a steep hill in traffic you would see how weak the stock clutch is.

I also am a bit hard on a clutch and wanted something better.:laugh:

The point is that the clutch I gave them is not what came out of the car on the next clutch job.