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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2005 Elantra GLS began making a strange intermittent sound when the air conditioning was on starting about a week ago. At first, with the stereo on we thought it was a rain stick- an occasional short-lived sort of swishing sound. Then suddenly it got louder and constant but stopped as soon as I turned the A/C off. Turning the A/C back on later instantly produced this constant sound which was the clutch trying to engage a seized compressor. I instantly shut the A/C off. However, trying it the next morning, the A/C worked fine and quietly for several miles down the road. Trying it again later it instantly could not turn the compressor. After letting it cool off I can turn the compressor by hand, but trying the A/C seizes the compressor. Now just a few seconds after turning the A/C on the compressor locks up. I am wondering if it could be a plugged receiver drier filter as the situation came on gradually and as I am able to turn the compressor by hand after it sits overnight. Or would a plugged filter just starve the evaporator but not seize the compressor? Looking at the high-pressure line from the compressor to the condenser, it looks like flow is through the condenser before it goes to the filter drier, so I doubt it's liquid backing up filling the condenser and high-pressure lines until it stalls the compressor. Any ideas on what it could be besides a bad compressor? I have experience with industrial refrigeration and I have gauges and a vacuum pump. Thanks, Doug
 

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If the evaporator is blocked, or any piece is blocking the system; then the compressor won't get freon return on the low side. High side pressure will build up and pressure switch will turn off the clutch.

When you say locks up. Is the clutch activated and the belt is slipping?

There is three things that engage/disengage the clutch:
Pressure switch
Thermostatic switch (on evaporator)
ECU (I don't know the full logic, but coolant temperature is part of it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The belt is tight and not slipping-the compressor clutch is slipping because the compressor gets hard to turn to the point of locking up. Let to sit overnight, it would turn the compressor
for a short time, and then the compressor gets hard to turn. As the belt is tight, the magnetic clutch slips with a loud noise. After sitting overnight, I can turn the compressor by hand.
Once I start it and try the AC, it locks up and I cannot turn it by hand. This is what makes me think it might be a blockage creating liquid backup to the compressor. Doug

If the evaporator is blocked, or any piece is blocking the system; then the compressor won't get freon return on the low side. High side pressure will build up and pressure switch will turn off the clutch.

When you say locks up. Is the clutch activated and the belt is slipping?

There is three things that engage/disengage the clutch:
Pressure switch
Thermostatic switch (on evaporator)
ECU (I don't know the full logic, but coolant temperature is part of it).
 

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It also could be the compressor overheating and seizing. You're suspensions sound like a good possibility.

If you run it to get it to lock up, evacuate the system, then see if that allows you to turn the compressor. If it turns, it should be a blockage. If it still doesn't spin, the issues is probably the compressor itself.

You could do a full system service:
Pull the compressor off
check compressor for suction/pressure
check clutch operation
Re-oil compressor (5oz PAG-46)
replace expansion valve
replace dryer bag. (if you have plastic plug in radiator be careful it will strip easy and require new condensor)
Run A/C line cleaner in condenser, lines and evaporator after drier, expansion value and compressor removed.
Reinstall compressor
Install new drier and expansion valve
Replace all o-rings (might as well they cheap enough)
Run vacuum test on sealed system.
Fill with 600g 134a freon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Locking it up and evacuating is a good idea, I will try that. I am with you on all points except one- not sure what you mean by "plastic plug in radiator'. Do you mean the cap on the bottom of the dryer tube? I know I should replace it as well as the seals. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I really appreciate your input. I will try evacuating after lockup today and let you know what I find. You are the only one who has provided any helpful info out of two groups I posted in.
Thanks, Doug
 

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I know this isn't part of your issue, but I would also take a look at your motor mounts (specifically the transmission mount). Mine was bad and the excess load from the A/C exacerbated the bad mount and would create a loud noise and engine shaking. So this isn't the cause of your problem, it may be something adding to your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I appreciate your input, but I have positively identified 100% of the noise as coming from the slipping AC clutch. Doug

I know this isn't part of your issue, but I would also take a look at your motor mounts (specifically the transmission mount). Mine was bad and the excess load from the A/C exacerbated the bad mount and would create a loud noise and engine shaking. So this isn't the cause of your problem, it may be something adding to your problem.
Looks like it will be a few days until I can get my gauges back from a friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I finally got around to putting the gauges on the AC. First, the car was cold and the A/C compressor turned easily by hand. After putting the gauges on, starting the car and turning the A/C on, the compressor clutch almost immediately started slipping. It did not run long enough to see any changes in the pressures. So I started removing refrigerant from the high side, and once highside pressures went down, the A/C compressor would stay in. Shutting the car off, I then could still turn the compressor by hand which I could not do before after trying the AC. This clearly shows that the compressor lockup is due to a liquid back up in the high-pressure line. I have ordered the dryer and associated parts and will post when I do the repair. Thank you smileymattj for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I went to my local Hyundai dealer today to try and get the parts for the A/C repair. Unfortunately, their parts blow up does not show inside of the filter dryer on the condenser. It only shows the filter dryer condenser as a unit. I've tried but I cannot come up with part numbers for the filter. I have purchased an aftermarket desiccant sock, I need the filter, screw cap, and O-rings shown on the Hyundai Service site- https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/ but they are not shown in Hyundai's parts books or on other websites that show Hyundai parts. I can't seem to find parts numbers for the parts shown on the tech info site. The Hyundai parts guys I spoke to today gave up. Any ideas? Thanks, sundug
 

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Well the OEM condenser has a plastic plug. When I tried to remove mine guess what; the plastic striped and required replacing the entire condenser.

So you might want to look at yours, if it's got a plastic plug, be prepared because you're probably going to have to purchase a new condenser.

You don't have to replace the o-rings unless you just feel better about having new ones, or you know for a fact they are leaking. If you do take the plug out smoothly, you will see those o-ring seal very nice and snuggly.
The filter part really isn't listed as maintenance replaceable. There's really not much to it if you look at it. The bag is what calls to be replaced. You should be fine keeping the existing filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the reply, I was wondering if the filter was reusable/cleanable. Any tips on removing the plug without stripping it? Or how the get a replacement cap? I wonder why the Hyundai tech site shows the filter and cap, but Hyundai parts does not? I appreciate your input, you have been more helpful than anyone else, including Hyundai. Sundug
 

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Could try some gentle heat. I couldn't get it out properly. I knew when I seen it it was going to be almost impossible to get out.

I tried unscrewing it like it should come out and just a little pressure I could see the plug starting to twist in the middle. The outer thread part wasn't budging but the inner part where the allen wrench goes was twisting. I tried using channel-locks to grab what little bit of the outside i could to turn the threaded outer part with the inner part with the allen wrench at the same time. Same result. So I tried applying more pressure when turning which did nothing but make the allen wrench spin inside the plug finally stripping it. So then only choice was to drill it out. At this point I knew the condenser was screwed. If I had to resort to drilling out shavings would get inside and it would be worthless. I drilled it out just to see if it was possible to get the plug out under any means. got the center drilled out and threads still wouldn't budge. Tried tapping it with a screw driver and hammer and that only dug into the plastic until it hit the aluminum of the condenser.

So basically I doubt you're going to get the plug out cleanly. I had evacuated the system and disconnecting the condenser lines. So there was no pressure on the plug.

I'm always trying to get OEM mechanical parts for my Elantra. Anything under the hood I go OEM. But with this poor plug design I went with an aftermarket TYC condenser that has an aluminum plug.
If it ever gets crushed one day, or gets leak, I'll probably save the plug and got OEM and remove the plastic plug before installing. I really dislike the fact it's not OEM, but needs to be serviceable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-C...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20d589953c
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm pleasantly surprised at the price of the condenser you pointed out on eBay. Hyundai gets close to $300 for theirs. So you are saying that the aftermarket cap will fit a stock condenser? If so, maybe I'll see if I can get a cap to fit the condenser you bought. I found this on eBay- http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-4781500-AC-Receiver-DrierAccumulatorNew-Receiver-Drier-/141014692600 and although they don't say so the picture makes it look like you get the whole set- desiccant bag, cap,filter and o-rings. Unfortunately it is not listing it as fitting any Elantras. Is that what the Elantra plug and filter looks like? Thanks again, sundug
 

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I haven't verified that the aftermarket cap will fit the OEM radiator. But that's what I was planning on trying if I ever ran into having to replace it again.

Although I was never able to remove the plastic plug out of the threads to check, it did look very close to the same on outer diameter.

That looks like the filter in the listing you linked. It actually looks like it provides a metal cap plus filter and plastic cap plus filter. So it looks as if it comes with two filters and two caps. Or it maybe a generic stock image and they send either plastic or metal cap depending on vehicle. They are probably just using one image for multiple listings / car applications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks, I'll post what I find when I get to the job. BTW, I restored a 67 Mustang convertible, sold it. sundug
 
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