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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a Beta II and just recently got an Alpine Stage I Intercooled kit for it. I've been really busy lately and just now had time to attempt the install. While trying to wire the Unichip, I've run into a problem. With the red/white and green wires intercepting the Crank Position sensor signal wire, the Car will not start. It cranks but doesn't seem to spark. I have checked the connections and everything's hooked up right. I can't seem to figure it out at all.

If i un-do the connection to the crank position sensor and just twist the wires together (reconnect the 2 ends of the signal wire), the car will fire right up and idle. When the signal wire is intercepted, it wont start/idle.

Any ideas? I have the 12v source coming from the fuse relay by wrapping the red wire from the Unichip around the 2 orange "double wire" in the relay box. The Unichip is also grounded at the negative battery terminal. Again, with all wires connected and the Crankshaft Position sensor left alone (no wires connected to it from the Unichip), the car starts and is drive-able with no problems. I also have 290CC injectors installed so fuel shouldn't be a problem.

I came here because I know there's a lot of knowledgeable members on here who have a ton of experience with the Alpine kit with the Unichip. I'd much rather be running the AEM FIC but due to some recent financial hardships, I can't afford to use anything but this pre-tuned Unichip. Any help is appreciated!

Oh and another thing, I have one person I've talked to on a different forum suggesting to run the unichip without intercepting the crank position sensor's signal wire. They believe the Unichip can't change the timing . . . . if it can, they said they think it would only be able to pull timing a lil bit, nothing major.

Another person says to just tap it. By just tapping the Crank Position Sensor wire, they Unichip would be getting a signal basically telling it what RPM the engine is at I believe. That would mean there's really no way for it to modify the signal since it would just receive a signal and due to the green wire not being attached, it can't modify it and adjust timing.

By running it either one of these ways, the car will start. As for whether or not it's safe is what I'm trying to figure out. Is it really necessary for the Unichip to be able to control the timing and/or it will it just knowing what RPM the engine is at sufficient enough for proper functionality? I'll be running a max of 15psi and will remain under 300HP. Can anyone with experience chime in?
 

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Most of the people that would have the experience you need are long gone. did you spend a good while searching? you may even come up with a wiring guide.

try hyundaiaftermarket.org as well. there are people over there that may be able to help. there are a lot more people on that site running boost than there ever will be here. Wish i could help better
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses, I've just seen that the Alpine kit was pretty big over here and thought I'd give it a shot. I'm starting to think that the Unichip for some reason isn't getting power. I did a lot of research and for the price, i couldn't have gotten a better kit. I heard once it's running right, this kit is very reliable and reliability is a key point in my interest. I know maintenance levels will be higher and more demanding but all in all, I just want a decent boosted Tib. Not ever going to run crazy high boost levels like some guys around here.

I'll try to contact bmwdad and see if he has any advice.

Thanks again for the tips!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would get an Aem fic but that's me
If I had the money, I would be all over getting a better Piggyback. . . . unfortunately, current finances forces me to stick with what I have now. Having the AEM FIC would be nice since I can get a nice patch cord for it and not have to worry about cutting into my factory harness.
 

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Google is your friend...here's a diagram I made a while ago when I was working for Alpine. Pay attention to the connector pin numbers as Alpine changed wire colors several times over the years. With that said, the Alpine kit was a decent kit, the company was/is not. Even though their website says under new management, that's only because the founder John Conchie died. The same people are running it in the background back in South Africa, with the same old poor business practices.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/Tiburon%20unichip%20diagram/maral01/turbo%20project/UnichipMAF.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Google is your friend...here's a diagram I made a while ago when I was working for Alpine. Pay attention to the connector pin numbers as Alpine changed wire colors several times over the years. With that said, the Alpine kit was a decent kit, the company was/is not. Even though their website says under new management, that's only because the founder John Conchie died. The same people are running it in the background back in South Africa, with the same old poor business practices.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/Tiburon%20unichip%20diagram/maral01/turbo%20project/UnichipMAF.jpg
That's the diagram I have and used to wire the Unichip and still nothing. I think the Unichip itself isn't working for some reason but can't figure out why. It acts like it's not getting power or something. The car still will not start when the Middle crank position sensor wire is cut and intercepted by the Unichip (I'm 100% sure I am cutting the middle signal wire btw). Someone told me to just "tap" the signal wire instead of trying to intecept it, therefore causing the Unichip to only get an ignition timing signal but not actually be able to change it, but I don't know how safe that is. I know there's a guy who is running stock timing and over 500hp, so I would think it's safe, but I just don't know why more ppl haven't tried it if that was really the case.

I just can't figure it out. Once I try to Intercept the crank position signal with the Unichip, the car with continuously crank but never actually fire and start to idle. . . . . . I'm at a lost right now
 

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I too had the exact same problem. I've been running the Alpine kit in my Elantra for over 4 years now. It wasn't until recently the Unichip bit the dust. Same symptoms, when wired to the crank sensor, no start. When I disconnect it and wire it back to stock, it runs fine. I've determined that the Unichip failed, and simply upgraded to an SMT-6. Perhaps you might have to do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I too had the exact same problem. I've been running the Alpine kit in my Elantra for over 4 years now. It wasn't until recently the Unichip bit the dust. Same symptoms, when wired to the crank sensor, no start. When I disconnect it and wire it back to stock, it runs fine. I've determined that the Unichip failed, and simply upgraded to an SMT-6. Perhaps you might have to do the same.
Yea, that's what it seems like. It pretty upsetting that the dude I got it from sold me something which he guaranteed to work, only to find out that it's apparently defective. Now I've lost out on quite a bit of money, considering I now have a full turbo kit that can't be installed. It's been sitting for a few months already. My main reason for using this Unichip is that it is supposed to be pre-tuned for up to 15psi, I only planned on running 10-12 max. It was supposed to also be tuned a lil rich, which i was fine with. Rather be safer so I wasn't worried about fine tuning for absolute max power . . . . I was going to leave it as is and run a lil richer.

I'm actually glad to get to see dmdicks is on here. Over in the other sea, he's like the Unichip/Tuning God for the Betas. Speaking of which, is there any way to test if the Unichip is indeed defective? I"m not that great/educated when it comes to electronics, so i'm not familiar with all the little tricks/etc we can do to test whether something is working or not.
 

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Did you verify that the unichip is getting power? Use a volt meter and verify that you have power to the Unichip while cranking the engine. If you do not then the car will not start with the crank signal wire intercepted. The Unichip must have a steady 12-14 volts at all times when the key is on. If the power drops or stops while cranking your crank signal will not pass through the unichip and make it back to the hyundai ECU.

Also make sure you have power to the Unichip pull up wire. This brings the crank signal up to a level that the unichip can read. No pull up wire power, no signal, no start.

With that said most of Alpines Unichip tunes actually added ignition timing no subtracted. That's why its perfectly safe to run with the ignition wire tapped and not intercepted below 15psi. I would not go above 15psi because then intake air temps get too high and can cause detonation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did you verify that the unichip is getting power? Use a volt meter and verify that you have power to the Unichip while cranking the engine. If you do not then the car will not start with the crank signal wire intercepted. The Unichip must have a steady 12-14 volts at all times when the key is on. If the power drops or stops while cranking your crank signal will not pass through the unichip and make it back to the hyundai ECU.

Also make sure you have power to the Unichip pull up wire. This brings the crank signal up to a level that the unichip can read. No pull up wire power, no signal, no start.

With that said most of Alpines Unichip tunes actually added ignition timing no subtracted. That's why its perfectly safe to run with the ignition wire tapped and not intercepted below 15psi. I would not go above 15psi because then intake air temps get too high and can cause detonation.
^^ In 1 message, I now know more about the Unichip than I did after reading countless threads about them and the Alpine kit. I also now have a definitive answer to whether or not I can just "tap" the Crank Position sensor signal wire instead of intercepting it. Dave, thanks so much for the info your providing about the Unichip, I really appreciate it.

Btw, not sure if u know or not but is it necessary to use the negative batt terminal for a ground or could u just ground it to the frame? ie: Bolt it down to the driver side front strut tower?
 

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The unichip is VERY sensitive to poor grounding, that's why Alpine suggests the neg bat terminal. If you ground it to the chassis make sure the paint is scraped away otherwise it may not be a good ground.
 

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i'm looking to do someting like this to my veloster, get some more hp's and pep out of it so the next time i got someone laughing at my little sports car i can leave em in my wake
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The unichip is VERY sensitive to poor grounding, that's why Alpine suggests the neg bat terminal. If you ground it to the chassis make sure the paint is scraped away otherwise it may not be a good ground.
I'll try to ground it to the negative again. I've been so busy lately, but I'm going to attempt to wire in the Unichip one last time. This time tho, I'm just going to wire it into the MAF sensor. If it starts throwing CEL's I'll know the Unichip doesn't work anymore. I don't have a voltmeter to check it so unfortunately that's out of the question, at least for right now. If it runs fine like that, I"ll just tap the Crank Position Sensor signal wire and run it like that. I've had this kit sitting for over 2 months now and have been dying to get it up and running finally. . .
 

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i'm looking to do someting like this to my veloster, get some more hp's and pep out of it so the next time i got someone laughing at my little sports car i can leave em in my wake
If you didn't get the turbo Veloster, you should trading it in for one...
 

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I highly recommend you get a volt meter. They are very cheap at places like radio shack or Harbor Freight. If you just tap the MAP sensor it will start but not run good. The Unichip needs an RPM aka Crank signal to know what sort of MAF voltage to output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I highly recommend you get a volt meter. They are very cheap at places like radio shack or Harbor Freight. If you just tap the MAP sensor it will start but not run good. The Unichip needs an RPM aka Crank signal to know what sort of MAF voltage to output.
Yea, I tried to go out and just tap the crank signal and intercept the MAF signal. Not much luck. The car started but was running bad like there was a vacuum leak, which there wasn't. re-doing the MAF signal wires would make it run slightly better and have a decent idle around 850-1k RPM. The problem now is that when I try to rev it, the car will rev freely but while the engine revs drop, it hangs at 1.5k RPM for about 5-10 seconds before finally dropping back to idle. Sometimes it will even start to slowly rev by itself up to around 2k RPM and then drop down to idle.

I didn't think the Unichip would be this much of a hassle. . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So now after a few more attempts at wiring the Unichip with a volt meter as well, I'm concluding that the Unichip isn't working itself. So now I'm moving on to a SMT8T that I have. Does anyone have or know where I can get pre-made maps for it to start off with? And/or tips on using it to tune?
 
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