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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I start, I just want to say........ You need PATIENTS and TIME!

First off, you need to remove the interior trim along both sides of the car.


Next are the rear seat and the side parts. You can leave the backs of the seat in the car.


To make life easy, remove the glovebox, dash trim, and the trim under the steering wheel.





--------FOR THOSE WITHOUT AN AMP ALREADY------------------

You are going to have to remove 3 10mm nuts that hold the black box the firewall. (THANK YOU CARBON!) I know many of you have had a hard time pulling the box back even after removing the nuts. This is because there is a small wire tie on one of the large wires looms holding it in place. Cut the tie and you should have a bit more room to pull it back. Once it is pulled back, you can then cut a small hole in the rubber thing and start feeding in the wire.


Back in the car, look above and the right of the gas pedal, you should see a small spot that looks like it has a few cuts. Put you finger in there and you should feel the wire. Then if needed, grab some pliers and SLOWLY pull the wire into the car.



Run the wire under the brackets along the driver’s side of the car and into the trunk.



Now on the passenger side, run the RCA wires under the brackets the same way. Start from behind the head unit and end in the trunk.

---------------------------------------------------------------------


Back the Doors.

This is the part where you want to just stop and ask your self "WHY?". Then you answer yourself "Because I want damn good sound!". Anyway. Start on the passenger side. Behind the kick panel, unclip the bundle of wires from the black plastic, and then remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic to the body. You now have two options. You can either 1) unplug the connectors to the door and drill through the unused spots in the connectors. or 2) pop out the small rubber grommet that is just above the conduit to the door.


(if you need help with this step, find the "PASSENGER'S SIDE DOOR WIRING CONNECTOR INSPECTION" section here )

I used the second method. Once the grommet is out, fish some rope in the hole and into the car. Tie it to the speaker wire and slowly pull the wire. Now take a knife and cut a small hole into the conduit on the door side. Remove the door panel and the speaker. You should see where the wires come into the door. Slowly feed the speaker wire through the cut and into the door.


To prevent interference, run the speaker wire for the driver door on the passenger side of the car, behind the dash and down to the kick panel. Repeat the same steps for the passenger door.



Grab some silicone sealer and fill in the cut you made on the conduits and fill in the spots where the grommets where.

Connect you wires to the amp and ENJOY!!
 

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I just have one thing to add to this great write up... be careful with the B-pillars when you take off the plastic shroud around the seatbelt, i broke two clips on both sides.
 

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great writeup, but why did you run new wires into the door? the stock wires can take any kind of power that component separates can take without any distortion or load resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Elantra2.001 said:
I just have one thing to add to this great write up... be careful with the B-pillars when you take off the plastic shroud around the seatbelt, i broke two clips on both sides.
YES. Please be careful when removing the trim. I also ended up busting a few clips. Look at the first pic in the post. Under my driver seat you can see little yellow things. You got it, those USED to be the clips for the B-pillar.


southpawboston said:
great writeup, but why did you run new wires into the door? the stock wires can take any kind of power that component separates can take without any distortion or load resistance.
Well, I just wanted to play it safe. I am running a 1200W amp so that is about 300W to each of my 4 speakers so I wanted to use between 14-16 gauge wire.
 

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Nice write up with pics :D Works well, i'm almost done with my speakers, replacing all 4 inside with Pioneers :D Good Job!!
 

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southpawboston said:
great writeup, but why did you run new wires into the door? the stock wires can take any kind of power that component separates can take without any distortion or load resistance.
Yeah! I just ran the speaker wires from the amp to the OEM speaker wires behind the radio which go to all 4 speakers.
 

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I just read this diy and in blackshinobi's defense, running new wire to the speakers is better for various reasons: 1st to ensure that the wire is capable of handling the power(yes I have used the stock wires for a short time and they did handle the power), 2nd you have less connections to check when troubleshooting. The connection is straight from the amp to the speaker(or crossover) no wire to wire connection. 3rd better quality, or even color, wire can be used. 4th you can choose where to run your wire to ensure that there is no interference from power wires.
 

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ruff, i agree with all your points. no contest. but the sight of wires running in plain sight like that, between the a-pillar and the door, is unacceptable to me. at least if someone is going to drill new holes to do this, they should get some corrugated rubber conduits (any install shop should have these) to at least look somewhat stock.

also, i prefer running the amp wire inside the left fender well at the battery and down into the rocker panel through an existing unused grommet. again, it's an appearance thing. running the amp wire through that box on the firewall works fine, but just doesn't look stock.
 

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oh no, I would hide the wires myself too, but the comment I made about the color of the wires was incase you have your amps displayed you will see some wires exposed. As for the wires running between the doors it is only a few dolars to get the tubing to cover them. All in all I share many of your concerns southpaw.
 

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An easy way to run wires to door speakers is to pull out the
door rubber boot (rubber tube form the pillar to the door)
on each end, get a can of spray lubracant and spray inside the
rubber boot and the new wire can easily slide through the
rubber tube to the other side

As previouisly mentioned in this topic those wires run are un
nessecary for speakers, that sizes cable would be more appropriate for sub wiring
 

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good point yellow. most mains are only rated to 150W anway, which translates to 10 amps max. the factory wiring is good for at least 100W, and if you're only using the short distance of factory wiring that runs through the doors, you're fine for 150W.

but i appreciate all the above points.
 

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with 3 way components and a passive crossover that will not fit in the door you need to run wires anyway, I had the JL Audio XR 3 way and I mounted the crossover in the door(covered to product it from rain)and ran it through factory wires, but now I have MB Quart qsd components and for the 3 way there are 2 crossovers which are both bigger than the JL crossover so some peoples applications will require running new wires...I say thanks for the DIY blackshinobi
 
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