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· Just the facts please ...
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1,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Below is an excerpt from a thread I have on the Streetkiaz forum. I'm showing this part, because of the fitment issues I had today. Do the Elantra's and Tiburon's have that much more room, or is adding a collector causing that big of a problem ... just read and it will make since ...

Progress ... finally, and it was a little eye opening too...

After taking off the old manifold, we test fit the turbo to help build the manifold, and instantly had fitment issues. The Turbo is a Garrett TBO357, which is a .57 trim T3. Its new in the box ... never been mounted, so when I dropped it down where the old manifold was, we saw some issues with clearance from the wastegate actuator and the down pipe.

Why are not the other people having this issue? Alpine ... they were using an MHI turbo. Theses are actually have a smaller physical body then the Garrett's and use smaller actuators. Does my problem come from using a small collector like below.. The OBX tubular, Alpine log and the Korean manifolds have no real collector. The four runners simply dump into the T3 flange, not like mine which has a collector.



As you can see there is not a lot of room (see below), so the passenger side radiator fan was removed. If its an issue with the air conditioning or engine over heating I'll re-mount it in front of the radiator.



With the radiator fan out of the way there was room, but because of the large actuator I couldn't move the turbo over far enough, for what we thought was room to sufficiently clear the alternator and its wiring; so we rotated it ... more room :-D

So after several test fits we had the first runner almost done. Ricky E., the owner of SpeedFactory does some nice work ...



This should give you an idea of the tight fit and the twist I mentioned earlier. There are several sensor where the actuator goes along with a coolant line.



A few extra pictures after the first runner is tacked into place.





One last thing (see below)... see the nut just above the middle stud? Its needs to remain ... its an oil gallery plug! When I had the flange made, there was no need for the hole. I was told it was a manufacturing hole ... right. Luckily it was an easy fix.



Will update midweek ... knock on wood ... knock ... knock, and show some more pictures. Had to get a new HD put in my laptop, which is fixed now ... so will be going on the dyno next weekend to do the N/A tuning and familiarize myself and my dyno tuner with it. Almost done!!! :-o
 

· Eldiablo owner
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306 Posts
you could get the turbo much closer to the engine by using a different (smaller) actuator and mount it front of the compressor housing (where the inlet is) instead of on the side like in your picture or simply go with an external gate
 

· Vtec what?
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350 Posts
^^what he said, also if they're building a manifold, why not make it a top mount, or flip the turbo around so they don't have to run the outlet piping across the exhaust. also civic radiator and front mount the fan, that clears up alot of room.
 

· Just the facts please ...
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1,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you could get the turbo much closer to the engine by using a different (smaller) actuator and mount it front of the compressor housing (where the inlet is) instead of on the side like in your picture or simply go with an external gate

I don't want an external gate, and I did try a different location , but there are two sensor in the way. Anyone know what they are??

Just wondering if the space problem is caused by the use of the collector ... any pictures taken from underneath?
 

· Ninja Super Mod
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17,338 Posts
bmxdad:

the obx header, if you pay attention doesn't go 90 deg towards the bottom. it has a weird curve, and that is to allow the turbo to seat more towards the top.

Do that.

Or, do a topmount, that would be nice. if you're getting a custom manifold, might as well go all the way.



 

· Just the facts please ...
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1,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info Kenyon ...

.... are the other turbos positioned higher then those two sensors?

A top mount is an extra 2-300 bucks, and I'm running out of money. (I have/had $3000 set aside for this), so its not an option ... but I did ask!


the actuator and bracket you're using are to obulky
you need a smaller actuator and a bracket that will mount the actuator on the inlet side of the compressor housing
The two sensors mentioned above are in the way ... they sit in front of the compressor.

This is what the OBX looks like, now just add a 2.5" collector and you see the problem ... fixable, just never seen it ...

 

· Ninja Super Mod
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17,338 Posts
Also... Another potential problem... check to see if the turbocharger will be sitting too low where the return line will not have sufficient space to go ''down'' in and be curved up, I saw this on someone's setup on nt.com.



 

· Just the facts please ...
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1,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
More manifold info ...

Well, after being pushed to the back of the line so many times ... its finally getting done. Should be ready this weekend, and at cost!! Less then an OBX manifold ;)

Only two more pictures ...
This shows the jig made to keep the flanges from pulling when welded. Also, notice the back purge setup and bolt clearance ... this is going to be a free flowing mini-ram.



Closeup of welds ... this is going to be a free breathing mini-ram.

 

· Just the facts please ...
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1,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Almost done ... one runner left .... five new pictures.


Front View ...



Side View ...



Bottom View ...



Head flange view. There still needs to be some blending done. Looks worse then it is because of the camera angle



Top View, Turbo flange is flat on the floor.



Will be test fitting the 2.5" down tube this coming week.
 
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