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Well, the season is upon us. It’s time for everyone to go out and kill some unsuspecting cones. I would encourage anyone interested in testing their abilities as a driver, and the capabilities of their car, to participate. I promise, after your first run, you'll be hooked. Every car has its class, so you stockers are welcome too. Novices compete only against each other.
The most prominent car club is the SCCA, but there are a lot of other regional clubs too. The SCCA's autocross events are labeled Solos. There are a few types of Solos, but the most basic is Solo II.

I would start with these few links.

Here is the home of the SCCA. You can find a region close to you here.
http://www.scca.org

SCCA Forums......
http://www.sccaforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

The Solo II novice handbook. Want to know what to expect on your first trip out? Read this.
http://www.tirerack.com/features/solo2/handbook.htm

Want to know what class you'll be in, and who your opponents will be? Check out the classifications.
http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/index.html

Stock Elantra XDs are placed in H Stock. In the stock classes you are allowed only a SMALL amount of modifications. If you make any other changes to your car, other then those below, you will be moved to STS, FSP or SM.
Here is an Over view of allowances, starting with H Stock .

- Anything available on the exact model and year of your car as standard or optional equipment, as installed on the factory assembly line (nothing available only dealer-installed is allowed), plus
- Standard OEM identical replacement parts
- Accessories, gauges, appearance, comfort, and convenience items (not replacement driver's seat, though) that basically don't help with performance.
- Added roll bar or roll cage to spec (not required, though)
- Driver harness (no cutting seats to install, though)
- Trailer hitch and/or tow bar mountings
- Any wheel of diameter and width identical to a stock or factory optional wheel, offset within +- 0.25 inch
- Most street legal tires that will fit the mounted wheels and stock bodywork
- Any shock absorber of the same type and mounting as original; no change to standard spring mountings is allowed; suspension geometry may not be altered; gas or hydraulic shocks are permitted
- Any brake linings; pre-1992 cars may use solid/braided metal brake lines.
- Any front anti-roll bar (no change to stock/optional rear anti-roll bar, if present)
- Manufacturer specified ignition settings only
- Any replacement air filter element (or removal of air filter element); no plumbing changes, however
- Engine bored no more than .020"; no balancing or porting/polishing of head
- Replacement of any part of the exhaust system past the catalytic converter (if quiet)
- Any oil filter
- Added clutch scattershield

STS, or Street Touring Street (tires)
As well as all of the above, except for race rubber, you are allowed the following. There are more allowances, but these are the most common.
- Any shocks, struts, and springs, using original attachment points
- Any sway bars
- Any wheels up to 7.5" in width that fit over stock brakes
- Tires up to and including a width of 225, with a treadwear rating of 140 or greater.
- Strut bars/braces as allowed in Street Prepared.
- Exhaust system downstream of catalytic converter(s)
- Short throw shift kits
- Spoilers, body kits, rear wings, etc.
- Pedal kits and other interior cosmetic accessories
- Alternate brakes pads and linings
- Any fully padded and upholstered front seats with reclining seat backs
- Removal of factory trim (rub strips, emblems)
- Alternate steering wheels of any diameter, otherwise meeting Stock rules
- Cross drilled and/or slotted brake rotors
- Alternate air cleaner enclosures
- No limited slip differentials except factory viscous coupler type units
- Stock brake calipers/drums
- Fenders may not be cut or flared (but specific modifications for tires OK)
- Emission-legal headers
- Emission legal modifications to Engine management system, either electronic or mehanical, but not both.
- Engine and transmission must remain unmodified, including emissions equipment


FSP or F Street Prepared. Stock class mods plus the following
- Any wheel, of any diameter and width may be used. Fenders may be flared.
- LSDs.
- .472 overbore and appropriate pistons may be used.
- Body kitted cars go here.
- Port matching for intake and exhaust is allowed, to an inch from the opening. Replacements are not allowed.


SM, or Street Mod. This is the “open” class where they sky is the limit for modifications. If you have modifications other than those above, chances are you belong here. All modifications allowed in Street Prepared, plus any modification to engine, transmission, suspension and weight are allowed as long as pump fuel is used.




I'm not great at this yet, but if you have any questions, I would gladly share what know.

As I have said before, I extend an open invitation to anyone that wants to try, to come out and run/ride with me. I have posted the schedule for my region, but also race in other regions.

good luck racers.
 

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I really want to start autocrossing the car but I want to get some smaller wheels before I do or at least some tires that do not rub in the back during hard cornering. Hopefully I will be able to compete in some events this year
 

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Resident Rompa Nalgas
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Good info, bro. I'm in that Mazda Rev it up next week at Shea Stadium and will be beating the hell out of a car that isn't mine! Let's hope my practice pays off next week.
 

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Well,you got to factor in tire wear,alignments,wear on the suspension parts,paint work if you smash cones.It just depends.There really isnt no set cost on things like that
 

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Super Hero
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Red you said rallyX. Is that what you mean? Off Road? That is a whole different thing and there is a lot of maint costs with that. Otherwise, for autox it is like 05 says but if you are constantly buying better parts the old ones never wear out. At least that is how it has been for me. My tib struts are still good but I bought Ksport coilovers. Is that techinically a maint cost? lol
 

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Bleh
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I know the difference between RallyX and AutoX =). I co-drive on occassion for my buddy who runs RallyX when I can. But I'm more of an on-road kind of guy. I love going up to Idyllwild or hanging with the Porsches sometimes on the Angeles Crest Highway out here in my XD. I'm also fairly budget consious too so autoX seemed to fit both my needs very well from what I'd been able to extract from reading various sites and a little common sense but I wanted to just make sure I was correct in my thinking.
=)
 

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Super Hero
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If you stay in H stock then you are obviously limited and you will have very little in the way of maint costs. Your cost will be in just getting the better parts you can get like tire and brakes.
 

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Bleh
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I have both front and rear strut bars, CAI, and as soon as Ted gets back from SEMA I'll have the the first ARK XD exhaust put on. KVR rotors and pads are also on their way from HP.com so I would be in Street Prep I believe. I don't think I've got much else in the way other than an eventual suspension upgrade and tires.

I don't lack behind the wheel racing experience onroad or offroad and my learning curve is very quick but I think I am already fairly able to learn, listen and compete. =)

Edit: It seems with the new rotors I have coming in I'd be placed in STS.
 

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Super Hero
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You should still be in STS. You will get your doors blown off in street prepared. I would stay away from mods that put you in that class.
 

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That depends on the tires - chck the treadwear rating. Soft tires handle great but wear out fast. On my car I have a separate set of wheels & tires I install for the events. I run potenzas with a 160 tradwear rating (very soft) I suspect that I will get 2 seasons out of them, being that I do my regular driving on my stock tires. I really don't recommend using the stock michelins - I tried them the first time, and they slid everywhere, got extremely hot, and got pretty tore up. :( But with the right set up elantras handle very well even in the stock class (HS) For tires I would recommend using Falken Azenis or Hankook ventus.
 

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05xd said:
Well,you got to factor in tire wear,alignments,wear on the suspension parts,paint work if you smash cones.It just depends.There really isnt no set cost on things like that
Really never needed paintwork for cones, just some black marks that ususally come off easy, I did however damage my inner CV boot when a cone hit it. I ended up comming apart 2 weeks later and taking out the wire for my o2 sensor and frying the harness! (I should get my car back today) It was repaired under warranty - It helps to work for hyundai :D
 

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i am new to solo, planing to go to one soon. i need a helmet, anything else i need? my 01gt has FSB, ground wire, SRI, OEM spoiler, pedals. which will put me in the STS class right? thanks
 

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If I took out all the seats in my car, what class would that put me in? And what about Turbo? where would that put me?
 

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jcr557 said:
if you took all the seats out where would you sit? got a remote control car? lol but yea sts2 and if you got a turbo you'd be in street mod.
hahaha smart ***! :p btw what's sts2? i don't see it listed above.
 
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