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Discussion Starter #1
Shark Racing is now offering carbon clutches for the 01-04 Elantra and 03-04 Tiburon 2.0. We are offering this clutch system as a special introductory group buy on ElantraXD.com. If you need a replacement clutch right now, or will be needing one within the next couple of months, then this may be a good solution, especially if your car is modded.

This clutch system consists of the VHR pressure plate, VHR chrome-moly forged flywheel, and Securex carbon disk. The pressure plate and flywheel are the same components of the VHR clutch system that we also sell on our website.

The clutch is rated at 400HP and 360 torque. As you all know with carbon clutches, when cold, the clutch will actually slip a little, but as it warms up, the hotter the clutch gets, the better it grabs, so it's perfect for drag racing as well as for the street.

To give a little background for the manufacturer of the carbon disk, this is a hightech factory that manufacturers carbon products for military applications, including carbon brakes for the Korean-produced F16 figher jet, and carbon launchpads for VLS(vertical launch system) missiles. So you know the quality is top-notch.

Shark Racing is the exclusive dealer for this product outside of Korea, so you will not be able to get this product anywhere else. Even in Korea, it sells for a higher price than the price that we will offer in this GB.

The pricing is as follows.

The minimum order quantity is 3 sets.

3~5 sets US$800, including shipping
6~10 sets US$770, including shipping
11~? sets US$730, including shipping

We will take orders and payment until May 14, and begin shipping on that day.

This list will be updated as people sign up.

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19 second madman
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any chance of getting it without the flywheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nyck said:
how much better are these items than stock? :confused:
This clutch would be much better than stock. For clutches, it's not as easy as other mods to quantify how much it's better than stock, but you will definitely feel a difference.


tharptroy said:
any chance of getting it without the flywheel?
Sorry, but this GB is only for the complete set.

Elantra2.001 said:
What are the specs on the flywheel? How much does it weight?
The flywheel is a forged chrom-moly unit. It's much sturdier and lighter than the stock unit. I believe the stock flywheel is about 8 kgs, which is about 18 pounds. The flywheel in this setup is 3.2 kgs, which is about 7 pounds.
 

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Super Hero
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"The flywheel in this setup is 3.2 kgs, which is about 7 pounds."


wow, the Fidenza is 7.5lbs for aluminum

Is there some advantage (other than .5lbs) to the SR chrome-moly flywheel over the Fidenza aluminum?
 

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19 second madman
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"High carbon steels tend to be more fragile than lower grades. The steel flywheels mentioned here are a good example. You might note that NASCAR only allows mild steel tubing for the roll cages in the cars. This is because they do not want contact to break a tube. It's much preferred that the tubing deform and "give".
When you make a steel part exceptionally light weight, you're going to sacrifice overall strength of the component, just as you'd do with any other lightened components.
If you take a look at damned near all the components that the Jap tuning experts sell, it should painfully clear that their "stuff" is designed for what "they" do in Japan.....run N/A race cars on smooth tracks. Their parts (including engine goodies) are know as 5,000 mile "specials" everywhere else in the world. They are not designed for everyday driving and repeated cycling.
On a flywheel, you can't have hi-grade steel contacting and wearing with hi-grade steel. This is just one of the incompatibility problems that exists between the flywheel teeth and those of the starter. Those components will destroy each other in a relatively short time span.
On the flywheels, once you have created a tiny fracture at the OD, the crack will continue to spread into the center, especially since there is considerable pressure (pressure-plate and disk) and rotational forces working on it.
This is a potential disaster waiting to happen.
An aluminum flywheel might be a touch heavier than the light-weight steel units. I suspect that, if you look where a flywheel's mass is relative to the center of the crank, the aluminum flywheel's mass is probably located a greater distance from center, so it's more difficult to accelerate (than light-weight steel flywheels).
The aluminun alloys used for flywheels are far more deformable and MUCH less likely to crack or break.

Now the white flywheels that people have asked about are fine, from a quality standpoint, however, the steps in them are .010" "off" for proper engaugement with the CM clutches. They can be remachined to work for minimal a minimal expense.
It's my understanding that the problem is already fixed, so it shouldn't be an issue in the future.

Flywheels and applications in different realms of the sport?? Man, this one is another topic that will require a full day (minimum) to address.
Briefly, if you have enough gear, engine mass, or torque to move the car from a stop to motion smoothly, or to launch a car without bogging, or using so much rpm that you blow the tires off, use a lighter flywheel.
If the use of the vehicle is all start and stop with a lot of hills and the car's heavy and the engine lacks rotating mass and torque, stay with (some) more mass.
Obviously, the low gear ratio (to the axles) and tire diameters also play a big role, as does the driver's prowess."
quote is from larry widmer-Endyn
 
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