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Discussion Starter #1
So I had my oil changed on the weekend with synthetic oil, but they also through in Slick 50 (which I usually research stuff before I put it in the car but negleted to this time). I also put in a new K&N air filter. Today I was and the check engine light came on. It seemed that as soon as it came on the rpm's reved a little a higher to get going from a red light. However, after a couple blocks it seemed normal again. I am suppose to head out of town tomorrow and don't have a lot of time to figure this out. Does anyone have any ideas? Could it be the Slick 50 gumming something up?
 

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i <3 torque
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did you take the car somewhere to have the code read? it could be due to the K&N Filter having too much oil on it and messing with your MAF, which would cause the RPM to jump at idle as well as require a little more giddy up to go. have the code read, clean the MAF if thats the case, and fuggeddaboutit
 

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Like Souless said, check for over-oiling.

There's also a small chance that the CEL is unrelated to recent maintenance. Other parts, like sensors, can simply fail from time to time. Fastest way to figure it out is to get that CEL code read.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so after the car sat that day for 4 hours the light was gone and seems to run just fine. Thanks for the advice
 

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On a slightly related note:
I visited a local shop for getting the oil change done, and was told that the drainplug is pretty loose. And need to replace the pan. Because the last oil change that maintenance guy used Epoxy to seal the plug and put it in place. So the pan has been messed up. What to do now. Any advises/suggestions?
Thx
 

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VIG
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On a slightly related note:
I visited a local shop for getting the oil change done, and was told that the drainplug is pretty loose. And need to replace the pan. Because the last oil change that maintenance guy used Epoxy to seal the plug and put it in place. So the pan has been messed up. What to do now. Any advises/suggestions?
Thx
This happened to me, too. There is a TSB about it. Just go into your local Hyundai dealership and ask for the longer drain plug as per the TSB. The drain plug that came with the car isn't long enough to reach all of the threads. The part will cost you about $6. That'll save you about $300.

If you want, feel free to send me the $300 you saved! haha
 

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Thanks for reply. Will you accept creditcard? ;-) LOL
But the thing has been already sealed by epoxy by the prev shop. What can I do about it now. I wish I had researched this sooner. The local shop that I went yesterday was saying, just to get a new one. Can the Epoxy adhesive be broken and the pan still salvaged?
What do you think?
 

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VIG
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Did they epoxy the whole drain all the way into the oil pan?? If those last few threads that the original drain plug couldn't reach are still intact I think it's definitely at least worth a shot.

Or, what I've thought about doing, is JB Welding a Fumoto oil drain valve on it. It's permanent, and it makes oil changes way easier. That's a $25 option.
 

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Ahh well when I saw the plug, from the outside the whole thing is plastered. It looks rock solid. I am not sure how much of an effort it is to break in and remove the plug in the first place. Since I did not take out the pan I cannot see from inside either as to ho far into the pan the plug is stuck. I am pretty sure its not the new deeper plug like you mentioned as I had never bought one and put it in. So I am guessing it must be OEM.
In the worst case scenario I will be left with making a call on getting a new pan as the shop technicians wont work on all possible scenarios until they have a reasonable conviction and a vested interest, right ?

Will also find out more info on welding thingy... Thanks for your inputs.
 

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Update:
Had success tapping the plug with a small hammer. The silicon fell off.
Finally a local shop guy helped put the groves/threads using his maigic ;) kit and charged me $50. All in all I am hapy I didnt have to g for a new pan. I was quoted $220+tax or higher by everyone. It does not even include installation.

Wonder, how so many so called "techs" get by with out knowing the basic tricks of the trades. Some of you guys on this forum seem to be better knowledgible than the ones I met. May be they dont care salvaging and rather put a new part at the slightest complaint.

Anyways, Thanks for your suggestions folks.
 
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