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Clayton's turbo build

32740 Views 139 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Siggie, 
Clayton_G4
14
Hello internetz. My name is Clayton. I own a Rally Red 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT. I have owned it for about two years now and have finally made the decision to go forced induction! Here she is in all of her glory:




TL;DR Don't buy Ebay parts or you'll have to re-do everything like me.


This all started December 2015 when I ordered a manifold off Ebay, I had already been collecting turbo parts up to that point, but as soon as the manifold came in the mail I became impatient and started working on the car. I didn't have the proper tools, nor the amount research needed. So a simple turbo conversion has taking roughly 9 months... Yeah, I know... I re-did the entire turbo set up completely after finding out the hard way that cheap Ebay parts are in every way inferior to well engineered OEM quality parts. I actually started out with a nice TD04HL-15T that I picked off a 99 SAAB 9-3 Aero at my local Pick-n-Pull. I ended up welding the turbo to the Ebay manifold (don't ask me why) and had no room for a down pipe. The alternator and turbine housing were 3 inches away from each other.... Not good. After escaping denial, I accepted the fact I wasn't going to be able to make this work. I searched Ebay for used OEM turbos. I stumbled upon a low mileage turbo assembly from an evo 8, which includes: the manifold, turbo, o2 housing, and a Turbosmart adjustable internal wastegate!
The old set up looked like it was just slapped together with no care whatsoever, and as ashamed as I am to admit it, it was!
I spent A LOT of time rethinking the plans for the car. After days of research and planning I decided I wanted the car to look like it came from the factory with a turbo. As if Hyundai Performance was real and they took this car off the production line and souped it up just like Mitsubishi did to the Lancer to make the EVO!

Updated parts/mod list 07/29/2016

OEM EVO PARTS

•OEM EVO 8 turbo (TD05HR-16G)
•OEM Evo 8 manifold
•OEM Evo 8 manifold heat shield
•OEM Evo 8 o2 housing
•OEM Evo 8 intake
•OEM Evo 8 compressor outlet pipe
•OEM Evo 10 injectors

AN FITTINGS

•-10AN - 3/8 NPT adapter
•-10AN SS line
•-10AN TD05 adapter
•-10AN end fittings (2)
•-4AN 90° fitting (2)
•-4AN adapter-12x1.25 banjo bolt
•-4AN SS line

Hoses/LINES

2 Feet of 1" heater hose
6 Feet of 5/16" heater hose
8 Feet of 1/4 vacuum line

EXHAUST

•3" EVO downpipe
•3" turbo back exhaust
•3" OBX muffler
•3" Glass pack resonator
•3" V band flanges

INTERCOOLER & SILICONE

•Intercooler 28x7x2.5
•Intercooler piping consisting a two 90 degree pipes and one 45 degree pipe
• 2.5 silicone couplers
• 2.5"-1.75" silicone coupler
• 1.75" silicone 90

MISC TURBO PARTS

•Turbosmart IWG-75 with 10 psi spring
•Spectre air filter
•Bosch recirculating valve
•Sickspeed vacuum manifold

ELECTRONICS & GUAGES

•AEM F/IC
•Bosch boost/vacuum gauge
•AEM UEGO gauge
•OBD2 scaner/ bluetooth adapter

NON TURBO PARTS

•KDM High spoiler
•Stickers (for more horsepower)
•Corbeau Forza Sport racing seat
•OEM 08 Tiburon steering wheel
•DSM Big brake kit
•TWM Short throw shifter
•OEM 03 Tiburon GT Sway bar
•Kenwood Headunit
•Eibach Lowering springs

Future parts

•Walbro 190LPH
•Turbosmart MBC
•OEM EVO 9 B.O.V
•Koni yellows
•Cluthmasters fx300 or fx400
•Fidanza Flywheel
•Koyorad Radiator


So! Here we go!

This is what my old set up looked like:


The new set up:


After the turbo was in, one of the first things I did was the IC.


I wanted to do two tight 90 degree bends right off the intercooler so I could keep my fog lights.
Only problem is that there is no room.
So I just cut out a little to make some more room.
Here is how it looked before:


Like I said earlier, I didn't think things through enough. Instead of removing the rad and cutting the metal off, I kept the rad in place, and used a hammer and screw driver to chisel the metal away... I can't wait to re-do this.
After:
]

Here is my old set up for the cold side IC piping.
I moved the MAF to the intake. But there was still a gap in between the IC Pipes, so I welded up a T pipe for a BOV out of some scrap 2.5" and 1" pipe


Unlike many people who do the ol' evo turbo, I decided to have the MAF in the intake. The stock MAF was never designed to see boost. That's also how pretty much all manufactures do it. Because of that I needed a recirculating valve instead of the usual vent to atmosphere bov.


The old hot side piping from the old turbo set up. I was using Lowes rubber PVC pipe couplers, overall, not the finest quality parts.


A big improvement. 4 ply silicone. I later swapped 02 housings. So I now use an OEM EVO 8 doughnut gasket.


My old turbo oil feed, right under the valve cover. 12mm-4AN 1.5mm oil restrictor to -4AN 90 degree then it goes to a 4AN banjo bolt. Nasty, and poor flowing.


My new oil feed. Ahh, so much better.


The first oil return I had was way too low on the oil pan. Because of that, the turbo smoked.
So I re-did it.
After I re-did the oil return, the new one kinked! That caused oil to spray out of my turbo... Oil was everywhere...


Fast forward to today, my oil return is now in the block. A much better location compared to the pan. Now the turbo won't smoke under heavy braking. I've actually got all the lines and fitting for a -10 AN return line but I haven't had the time to install. I'll update the picture one installed.


The only mods that I forgot to take pictures of are: OEM EVO X injectors, and re-wiring the AEM F/IC into the stock ECU.

That's it for now!

I would love to know what you guys think!
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Clayton_G4
Hello, boys and girls. I have just one question for you. Have you ever done something so unbelievably stupid you're ashamed to admit it? Well, I have. It turns out that I don't know how to perform a compression test.
After taking everything off the car for the part out I tried starting it one last time... She fires right up! WTF?!?! What kind of sorcery is this?! I can't believe this. Two weeks ago she's completely dead, today she's alive.
What do I do now? Do I continue with the part out? Do I fix up the car and flip it? Do I finish the build? What do I do?!?!
Well, I can't do anything with the car as it sits. So off to pick n pull for an exhaust. There's a tiburon with a full exhaust, with the cat and everything. I slap it on the car, along with a new intake.
Lo and behold shes back on the road!
I can't believe this! How could this be?
I haven't driven this car in so long...
You know what this means? Twisty roads!
But I can't go out on the twisties with these s****y tires, no. I need something better.
But how am I going to get new tires in the next 48 hours? Hmmm, what about those wheels & tires I bought in February that I forgot about? Yeah, those will work.
A quick coat of paint and they look brand new.

To celebrate all this, I went out to take some photos, unfortunately my batteries died. I only got a couple photos. Here is the best one:


I'm still debating if I want to keep this chassis or move on to a Tiburon or even another Elantra. Or getting something completely different like a mustang, dsm, or a miata.
But after driving 400 miles in two days on some nice mountain roads, and unlocking the potential with these new tires, I kind of want to keep this chassis and try the turbo build again.
What do you guys think of all this?
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Boostcreep81
I would remove the AEM F/IC and run the turbo kit on a low boost setup with a return style fuel system and a rising rate fuel regulator. Not many people have had good luck with the AEM on these cars, and on a low boost setup it's more trouble than its worth.
I didn't think you blew it anyhow by how you described it. If you stay under 10 psi, you can easily manage it without the F/IC. Over on NT, there are ALOT of threads where people just can't get them to function right unless they run a separate fuel rail.
I read your thread on there and you said you wouldn't part it out even if you blew the motor... so there is my answer lol.

Me personally, I'm debating on putting my turbo kit on my elantra since I am closing in on 200K miles. I'm thinking of getting a low mileage 2006 kia spectra5 in spark blue. Everything will bolt up to it from my elantra, and a lil more roomy. Plus, they look more "tuner" than the GLS
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Boostcreep81 said:
I would remove the AEM F/IC and run the turbo kit on a low boost setup with a return style fuel system and a rising rate fuel regulator. Not many people have had good luck with the AEM on these cars, and on a low boost setup it's more trouble than its worth.
I didn't think you blew it anyhow by how you described it. If you stay under 10 psi, you can easily manage it without the F/IC. Over on NT, there are ALOT of threads where people just can't get them to function right unless they run a separate fuel rail.
I read your thread on there and you said you wouldn't part it out even if you blew the motor... so there is my answer lol.

Me personally, I'm debating on putting my turbo kit on my elantra since I am closing in on 200K miles. I'm thinking of getting a low mileage 2006 kia spectra5 in spark blue. Everything will bolt up to it from my elantra, and a lil more roomy. Plus, they look more "tuner" than the GLS
Click to expand...

That is NOT a good idea. YOU MUST pull timing at a 1deg minimum per psi at 5+psi in some areas of the map.2deg in others.
low boost is hard to control . the engine loves boost at 8-12 psi ,really wakes the Fuk up.5 psi is MeH ..lil better...but meh.Fueling . there IS a
night and day difference between 10afrs and 12 afrs,TRUST there will be $h!ttty fueling without adjustments .there are night and day differences in areas needing timing pulled NITE and DAY
when timing is right it pulls sooo clean . not enough timing pulled and fuel not right will back fire and blow the $h!t outta the motor
i have NO tuning experience but have learned alot and slowly i tune spots. the car goes into OL by 3500rpm
the ECU does not fight OL fueling ,the off boost and transition area is where zeroing fuel trims with o2 modification is needed by a pro and
bigger injectors alone not to mention a RRFPR will cause the ecm to pull back as much as it can on injector pulse to stoich that it will
cause a CEL then it makes the transition that much harder. the F/ic does its job it just a matter of the right inputs.
fat and timing issues causes pops/hiccups, lean and timing causes bangs like a shiiot gun. its a Beast in areas of tune being close.
its a turd or dead in areas not.
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Boostcreep81
I still think the issues were with the AEM. Did you try running the kit without the F/IC, and just running bigger injectors with a RRFPR? 10psi on stock ecu with clamped MAP, bigger injectors, RRFPR and a 190lph pump should be fine. As for timing retard, spray alky/water to kill hotspots and detonation. I've done this on a few cars without issue. Hondas, chevy, Mitsubishis, mopars, I've done this way and no problems. Trying to drive a car around and figure out a tune without knowing the software is a quick way to a blown motor. When you step up to 15+ psi is when software needs to come into play.
K.I.S.S. man...
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Clayton_G4
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TL;DR: I blew my headgasket, but I took some cool photos though!
Here's one:


Long story:

I was out on my favorite twisty road enjoying the car one last time before I start the turbo build again.
On the exit of the last corners, I heard a very loud belt whine. Now my alternator belt has been squeaking for a about a week now and I didn't really care, I was just going to replace it when I change my timing belt. But this whine was so loud, I could hear it through the wind noise at 90mph, it was so loud it startled me.
I wasn't really worried, so instead of pulling over on the side of the road, I kept on driving until a gas station. On the way to the gas station, I pull up to a stop sign. Once stopped I can feel that the car is idling pretty low from the brake pedal vibration. Once traffic clears I start to accelerate like normal, but I notice a lack of power and a slight pinging/ rattle in the engine bay, and I could feel it in the throttle pedal.
I pull into the gas station, up to a parking spot, and the car instantly dies out...
Now I'm like: "Well, s**t."
I proceed to pop the hood. Smoke.... Everywhere....
The engine bay is soaked with water. Come to find out the coolant overflow bottle lid popped off. So that settles the smoking issue. Water just got on the exhaust and that causes the steam, right? Maybe.
So I tried starting the car up again... Dead battery... 11 volts... "Did the water f**k up my alternator?! S**t..."
I call my friend who is also a fellow Tib owner to jump start me, along with being my support car if I break down.
He jump starts me, I'm getting 13V from the battery so I think I'm fine. So we head out, I notice smoke coming from under the hood again at a stop light, I say: "F**k it, lets keep going." We hop onto the highway, everything is fine for the most part, aside from the ping/ rattle still being there. But then I start going up a slight incline and I notice the rpms are going down. I downshift to 4th, 3rd, then 2nd and still slowing down. I pulled over and opened the hood again and smoke everywhere, and worse. I notice water dripping and sizzling where the block meets the transmission.
So I get the car towed it back home. Two days later (today) I started working on it.
I start filling the rad with water and notice water dripping. Come to find out this little guy has a tear in it

So I replace that, along with the alternator. Filled the car up with the finest H2O that my a garden hose can spit out and tried starting her back up. Crank but no start... Come to find out, there are gulps of water pouring out the tailpipe... Not just condensation. Gulps of water...
The hoses don't have any leaks, just some water dripping off the manifo..... Wait a second. "Why is water still dripping off the manifold?" It's been 10 mins since I filled the rad. *brain loading* "What if water is dripping OUT of the exhaust?"

So that's my dilemma...
I can't do a compression test because the spark plug wires are stuck, but I don't think I really need to do one this time...

So I have two choices: Replace the headgasket, or engine swap. I won't know if the head and or blcok is warped until I dissemble the entire engine, then I'll need to go to pick n pull to disassemble a another engine to get the head off that, because there is no in hell I'm paying $500 for a cylinder head.
Or I can purchase a complete engine from pick n pull for $200.
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mkjh
I'm not sure how I missed your posts. Last I saw you were parting it out. Glad to hear that's not happening.

Not sure what to tell you on this one. Maybe an engine swap is the better choice if you are not sure how serious the problem is. Or maybe replace the head gasket if you are pretty sure that is the problem. Either way, glad to hear you are keeping your car after all.
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Elantra2005
Same thing happend to me with my previous car, I saw engine temp was almost at red line and I stopped at the highway and found the hot coolant hose had a hole and almost all the coolant gone... So I just filled it with water and stopped after 10 minutes to fill it again.
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Boostcreep81
What we do at work, and it makes it easier and cheaper most of the time, is get a whole new long block or JY/Rebuilt whatever and toss it in. I'm a fleet mechanic and have had too many times that both surfaces will need machining and the down time etc it gets costly, just to have a worn motor you put a new head on
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2001XD20
Clayton_G4 said:
SHE'S LEAK FREE!!! THE JB WELD WORKED!!!
The failed bolt extraction is no longer a problem. But my old oil feed 12x1.25-AN4 adapter is... kinda...
I sanded the brass fitting and slapped on some JB WELD putty. It's leak free, but I'm not sure how long though. So I ordered an AN4 end cap. So that should solve my paranoia. :)
My new oil feed definitely works. It works very well.
Shouts out to Edwin1664! If it wasn't for you I would still have my finger killer. This looks WAY better.
No restrictor since the turbo already has one built into the CHRA.
The OEM EVO 8 heatshield still fits, just barely, but it fits! I just wish the SS line came in black. But I'm happy with the way it came out! :cool:
Here's a nice pic and two cell phone pics:


Click to expand...
I'm so glad that I now know that where you attached your oil feed is in fact an oil hole. I was about to post something asking about those two holes on the head. I'm about to start a build once I gather all the parts needed

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
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Clayton_G4
Look what I got.
Updates soon to come.
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mkjh
That is awesome. I can't wait to see updates. Wish I could be there and help. I have never installed an engine before. I would like to see how it is done. Is it a two man job or can one handle it?

How many miles are on it?

I am glad you kept the car.
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Clayton_G4
mkjh said:
That is awesome. I can't wait to see updates. Wish I could be there and help. I have never installed an engine before. I would like to see how it is done. Is it a two man job or can one handle it?

How many miles are on it?

I am glad you kept the car.
Click to expand...
Removing the engine wasn't too hard. I did it in about 4 hours by myself.
I actually have no idea how many miles are on the engine.
The Kia Spectra5 that I pulled it from was in a small front end collision. The radiator was in perfect condition so it wasn't anything too bad. They wrote "Engine & trans good" on the windshield.
I'm still going to compression test the engine before I install it though.
I've been planning this for a while actually, I've kept it on the DL for the most part. I'm still going to continue the turbo build, but after the engine swap is finished.
High quality photos are coming, so stay tuned lol.
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mkjh
I am really looking forward to it. Post a few pictures of the engine install if you can. I would love to see it.
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ilanpro
make sure to replace the timing belt and tensioner before you put it back in is a lot easier when the motor is out
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0
vent your crankcase more and be sure to do any block drilling ect while its out and i 2nd on the timing belt.
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Clayton_G4
So guys, I finally was able to perform a compression test. The starter bolts up to the bell housing so I had to pull the old engine out so I could test the new engine.



Here are the numbers:

This was done with an Evertough tester straight from Oriellys.

Cyl 1: 100PSI
Wet: 125PSI
Cyl 2: 100PSI
Wet:130PSI
Cyl 3: 105PSI
Wet:120PSI
Cyl 4: 90SPI
Wet: 120PSI

Are these number too low? Should I return the engine? Should I just put it in? What do you guys think?
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ilanpro
numbers are close to each other motor should be fine
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mkjh
Very cool. I am looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Thanks for the picture.
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2000J25SP
That's very low compression, perfect for boost... maybe try a different compression tester, the tool could just read low. My 190k mile motor was between 210-215 on all cylinders. It's at 250 now after the rebuild. (12:1+ compression ratio)

I would expect at least 170 on a mildly worn out junk yard motor.
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Siggie
Clayton_G4 said:
Re: Clayton's (@Sleeper_Elantra) Turbo build! Lots of pics It's taken about two months so far. I am for sure going to so some videos. I've had the car for about two years now. And I live on southern Missouri.
Click to expand...
Yooo, I do too! Maybe you can help me out 😂
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