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Great DIY , one mod to it tho , instead of a buddy to hold the transmission up use one of those little hydraulic floor jacks , this is how I swapped the tranny on my 92 Elantra by myself . If you have the handle pointeed toward you , you can adjust the height alot easier by yourself .
 

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Sorry for digging up old news.

However, I have done everything to the point of putting the transmission back on. I can get it lined up and put on the shaft very little but it doesn't just slip all the way back into place.

Is there something I am missing?
 

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k man i'v done everthing my fly wheel is a lil grazed but barely showing, n i like to thank you on the diy helped alot without prolly be paying a**** load of cash on laboring mechanics that take em awhile to change, but i did this in a few days only took a few days because i had to wait for new clutch to get in, im 20 yr from canada, and its not a electra its a tibby, but sure did help alot............. appreciated the diy man o n for awhile i had toube with the tranny coming off, but i re read everthing n the slave clyinder part, just misread i guess......
 

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finished swapping my clutch out the other day, thought i'd add some notes. i did this on my own, was lucky and was able to use a friend's garage. took me a week of going over after work each day and going at it til midnight or so, but i always work slowly when doing something for the first time. i didn't use an impact, had access to an electric one but it didn't have enough torque to deal with some of the easier bolts so it was useless. my two foot breaker bar was my best friend for this job.

i referred to this post for the torque specs, very helpful.

the hardest part was getting the bolts off the old flywheel. i wasn't able to jam a prybar into the teeth and loosen at the same time by myself(wasn't able to keep the breaker bar on the flywheel bolts with one hand, they're a bit shallow), so after scratching my head for a while i ended up putting my ratchet on the crank pulley bolt so that once i started to try and loosen the bolts on the flywheel it turned into the passenger side subframe and held against it so that i could loosen the bolts with my breaker bar - piece of cake. for tightening them i used my breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt since my ratchet wasn't long enough to catch on the frame going the opposite direction, but this made it easy to get done by myself and without an impact.

the other hard part was getting the transmission back on. after an hour of trying to do it just by lifting and positioning(and failing), i got it rotated correctly but still resting on the subframe, and used my crappy backup jack(the one that comes with the spare) and some blocks of wood to slowly, slowly raise it and adjust it. after five minutes i had it lined up and balanced on the jack, and was able to just push it over and back on, easy.

those were the two parts of the job that were really frustrating since i didn't have anyone to help out, thought i'd pass them on for any that might go the same route. also, at the end my clutch pedal seemed to offer a lot less resistance than before, so i bled the slave cylinder multiple times and was worried maybe my tob hadn't clicked into place(it had). i gave it a test drive and it was fine, guess i was just nervous leading up to the first drive after all that work. i couldn't believe the difference, just getting it out of the garage and backing down the driveway i was accidentally kicking up gravel all over the place it was gripping so well/quickly.

oh, for posterity i took out the stock setup(~65,000 miles, original clutch) and put in an xtd stage 2 and fidanza flywheel.
 

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I replaced my clutch 2 months ago. This walk through was very helpful. 2 day job for me and my brother. Lots of dis-assembly, so have a helper, and AIR TOOLS. Plan on doubling the time without air tools- This will be a terrible experience with hand tools!!! Did this in the driveway on jack stands, 1 jack under motor, 1 jack under tranny.
I removed the front driver side sub-frame bolt, but was unable to get the frame to drop at all. Ended up being unnecessary anyway. The tranny can rotate and pull into the wheel well just fine without moving the sub-frame; keep a careful eye on the plastic speedo connecter. Didn't need to replace axle seals at the time, but keeping an eye on them.
-Cheers, KeithO
 

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I'm doing my clutch tomorrow-- I've got (and damn near memorized) the Haynes Manual procedure, but this is far and away more informative and helpful. Been about 7 or 8 years since I did a clutch job, and I've never done one on a Hyundai. Only old, old (1970s) Toyotas and more recent (mark I and Mark II/ 80s & early 90s) VWs.
Got a question if anyone who's done this job could confirm-- the crankshaft position has nothing to do with sliding the trans back into place, does it? Reason I ask is that VWs have to be at TDC in order for the splines to line up & allow the tranny to seat. Oh, it'll ALMOST slide back on.
First VW clutch I did, I KNEW about it going in, but once I got the flywheel off I discovered it was a "performance" aftermarket with no TDC marks... and the crank pulley was likewise "performance" with TDC mismarked. Pulled the #1 spark plug, dropped a dowel in the cylinder, cranked the pulley over til the dowel was as high as it looked like it'd go (piston at TDC, roughly), crawled under the car & tried to install trans. Repeat 142 times or so. And it was snowing. In a gravel driveway. Ugh.
That's why I ask. Anyway, please wish me luck. I offer many imaginary cyber-beers as a thank-you! And extra karma to the author of this DIY.Much, much extra karma!

Cheers
Jim B.
Grove City, OH
 

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Just wanted to add my experience. It's a 2004 GT. The write up was very helpful. I have the shop manual, and finding torq specs in it is not easy. One of the worst organized manuals I own.
The only use of my impact was on the lug nuts and axle nut. The rest is not that difficult with hand tools as long as you have one 2 ft breaker bar. I did use a pipe extension on it to free the front subframe bolt.

This is the second clutch for this car. The first I purchased the parts and paid my trans guy to install it as I did not have the time. Both went around 60K miles. This time having learned about the slave cylinder I'm hoping it lasts a normal life time. I have 135K on my Jeep clutch and I have plowed with it for 4 winters.

I discovered that the Mass Air sensor rubber boot to the manifold was mashed up at the bottom such that it was not slipped of the manifold opening at the bottom. I don't know how long it was like this. I had never removed this part. I don't know if it has been leaking all these years, though in a test drive after the clutch install, the revs of the engine seemed to respond better.

To the tool list I would add: 2 ft mechanic's pry bar. I used this to pry down the subframe at the front left corner as the trans would not fit otherwise through the inner fender wall. The bar was use to hold the flywheel while removing the flywheel mounting bolts. I locked it between 2 of the alignment pins of the flywheel. These bars are square in shape so are easy to hold flat on the pins against the wheel. Did the same to torq the bolts.

I also had to remove what I believe was the backup light switch. Use a plug in the hole to keep out dirt. If you have compressed air, blow off the area before removing the switch. I had to remove the switch in order to move the trans far enough through the inner fender opening.

I had early replace the axles. Beware, I had one bolt that I snapped with the big breaker it was so frozen into the steering knuckle. I had to use a torch to get it out. Be careful, and use a shield over the rubber parts.

Compared to Borg Warner T10's (especially the old cast iron case of my AMX) this transmission is not overly heavy. Just make sure you have the engine jacked up high enough. My initial try at matting up the engine and trans, the engine was tipped too low. I was able to simply lye over the fender, hold up the trans and move it toward the engine. Wear glove, protect the hands. One suggestion I saw on youtube was to use a bolt with the head cut off as a guide pin. It would have helped and I would suggest this to anyone.

One extra step I did was drain the radiator and remove the lower hose. That completely clears up the area. Just one less item to work around that is easily removed and installed.
 
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