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Golf Addict
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Let me preface this by saying that I looked for a DIY or a thread that answered these questions and had no luck.

Pardon my supreme n00b ignorance, but I've never installed an amplifier in a car before. I have an Alpine MRP-T406 240W amp (120W RMS bridged) and I want to mount it in my trunk with a cheap-o 10" MTX Road Thunder driver in a sealed box. I have a few dumb questions about how to install it:

Do I need to run the power cord all the way through the firewall to the battery terminal or can I find power elsewhere? Like near the back of the head unit?

If I use 16AWG wire for the power, remote, and ground wires, will this be adequate? Will I run the risk of melting anything?

What about fuses? I see that the amp has a 20A fuse on it. Do I need to install a fuse, and if I do, where?

Where would be the best place to run a ground wire? I want to make this all easy to remove to use the extra storage space, so I plan on using quick-connects for the power, remote, and ground.

Thanks in advance to all your obvious answers to my innane questions. I bow down to your supreme intelligence. :bowdown:

-Roy
 

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Well you should go with at least 10 gauge and I would suggest 8 for the power wire. That way you don't need to upgrade that again if you were to go with more power plus a bigger wire will have alot less interference in the line. Second I would say that the easiest way to run that wire would be from the engine bay into the wheel well then though the plug that is in the back of the wheel well. (I wish I had a digital camera to show you. Run the power wire under the bottom door panels(the ones that are pop riveted on. Then under the back seat.) That way it will be out of site. It's hard to explain without actually being able to show you. I hope that helps alittle and someone with a camera can show you what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So, let me get this straight, I should run the wire from the battery into the wheelwell (I assume through the space around the brake line?), behind the spring, and through the rubber grommet that goes into the cabin? I don't know if the idea of running a live wire through an area that gets so much moisture and possible abrasion... but it does look like a fairly straightforward route.

I really would rather splice in with a power source in the cabin. The guy who installed the amp in my Saturn didn't go anywhere the firewall, all the lines were connected to the back of the head unit. He may have been a jackass and half-ased my install, but for such a low-power application there must be a source in the cabin that would be easy to use.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will keep that in mind.

-Roy
 

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Splicing into a power source in the cabin will work, but it will pull too many amps from whatever it is that you are tapping into. The only way to make it work without messing anything up is to run it the hard way. I used the grommet in the center of the firewall and ran it down the driver's side kick pannel. I have seen people try to pull interior power before, but those wires aren't made to handle that kind of power.
The other thing you need to do is use the largest power wire you can. I have 4 gauge wire running a single amp with one 12 inch sub. I know that it is probably over-kill, but I don't want any probs. Also, pick your ground carefully. Make sure that the ground wire is as big as the power wire. If not, you'll get the dreaded headlight dimming effect at night. If it seems like a little too much to handle, don't be affraid to take it somewhere and have it done. If you need me to, I will post pics on how I ran mine.
 

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2004 Elantra GLS
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Personally I think the easiest way as mentioned is through the wheel well, and no it doesnt get wet. If you take off the plastic shield on the driver side wheel well, not even all the screws just enough to pry it back, you will see a black rubber grommet with wires going into it from the side of your car. If you pull out the grommmet you can fit the power wire into it and it drops right into the driver side floor. Just run the wire above the plastic shield, screw in the shield again and you are all set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jwoair, I followed your method, that seemed to make sense looking at the car. I went in through the gromet with the brake line, over the plastic shield in the wheelwell, and through the firewall with the wire near the driver's side. It took some sweat and a little elbow grease, but I got the power line run all the way to the trunk with minimal visibility. I also ran the audio and remote wires around the passenger side with great success. I ran the wires so they go through the child restraint anchors in the trunk, it's gonna look really clean when it's all done. I wish I had a digi cam to show my n00bzor lame-o sub install off! Hey, it's mine, it took me way too long, but it's done right.:nosthumbs

-Roy
 

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2004 Elantra GLS
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80 Posts
Congrats :) I know it was an awesome feeling whenever I saw the power wire laying in my floor after an hour of trying to figure out how to get it through, lol. It took me like 6 hours to install my cd player and run the wire to my trunk and install my subs, so dont feel bad :)
 

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Acountabilibuddy
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Pull up the trim pieces and tuck it under. Remove the two door sills, the lower B-pillar trim, the piece next to the foot rest, and the piece forward of the center console.
 

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I notice on the drivers side firewall all the way up and to the right is some thing or another and a connector and some wires that go through a big grommet toward the inside of the car. Does that go into the car too? I want to run my fog light switch cable though it and rather not go through the main wiring in the middle of the firewall if I can help it. (02 GLS AUTO, TRACTION CONTROL, ABS)
 
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