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Teach
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When my vent window was broke last night, my oem alarm had noticed it. I tried the doors first and they were locked and fully shut. I thought this was weird because I assumed the factory alarm did not have a shock sensor. Apparently it may have one.

Anybody know about this unknown feature?
 

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i agree. i think the doors relock when unlocked while the alarm is tripping. nowhere on the ETACS is there an input for a sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SP, did you get your sensor from DEI? Can you PM me the details? Tim was wanting to get one for his car and since he owes me, he's going to get me one too.
 

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yep, DEI, model 504M. i got it from this vendor:

http://www.autotechs.com/items/item1081.htm

it's a two stage (light/hard impact), but with the OEM alarm, you can only use one stage since the OEM alarm doesn't support a "warning" channel. i just wired it to trigger the hood sensor (-) trigger.

you may be able to find it for a few dollars less if you shop around but $20 was the best price i found at the time i got mine.

DEI also makes an audio glass detector for around teh same price, model 506T.
 

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I opened my hood one day and the alarm either turned on cuz of my pocket or i reached thought the window and opened the hood. anyway i slammed my hood and my alarm went off. try that and see if it works like that or not. i know you can bounce on the car and it won't go off
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SP. I gave Tim the link. I probably will go with the shock sensor, since that is more sensitive to harder hits. I had a glass break sensor on my El-Camino and after a few years, it would either go off prematurely or not go off. I want something that detects hits, which the shock sensor will do.

SP,

Do you know the color of the wire in the main wiring harness (before it plugs into the hood switch) that goes to the switch itself? I hate a rigged look and don't want it to look as it were added on.
 

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the wire comes from the ETACS and it is connector c pin 7. green/black. should be the same color from ETACS all the way to the pin switch.

don't you havemy ETACS DIY bookmarked yet??? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
southpawboston said:
the wire comes from the ETACS and it is connector c pin 7. green/black. should be the same color from ETACS all the way to the pin switch.

don't you havemy ETACS DIY bookmarked yet??? ;)

I do have it bookmarked, but I was wanting to make sure the wire did not change color from the ETACS unit to the switch as some car makers do (using a plug that separates the wiring harnesses from the engine bay to the interior of the car rather than having wires strung through the firewall). I do know, my 70 Superbird project car has a plug at the firewall where the engine bay harness plugs into the harness that is in the interior of the car.
 

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yep, i know what you mean. it does run through connector EM02 at the driver's kick panel but it stays the same color on both sides of the connector. the best place to splice the sensor in is right at the ETACS behind the HVAC cluster.

you can see the ETACS schematics here .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wanted to make damn sure before I start stripping wires. After replacing the window and tires, my budget is extremely low right now. Spending $300 on an ETACS system is out of the question.

I am however going to eventually add a set of leds to the alarm. That is another project I'll be looking into as well.

On the DEI shock sensor, there is a yellow wire that gets hooked up to an ignition wire. On the connector A, there is an Acc/start (pin 5) and Acc (pin 6). I am assuming the yellow wire gets hooked up to either of these, preferably ACC/Start lead. Would you confirm this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
southpawboston said:
i replied to your PM at EGT club.

Saw that. Asked you another ?? about it.

I finally added the shock sensor and found a few issues with the ETACS diy and the placement of the sensor itself.

The ETACS DIY specifies the constant power wire color is red (Pin A1) and the key on/start wire is red/orange (pin A5). This is incorrect to my view of my car as well as Tim's car. Pin A1 is constant 12 volts, but instead of red, it is solid pink. Pin A5 is also different, it is pink with a black stripe. I also went to 2 different dealers and them pull up the wiring diagram for the ETACS. According to their information, it is the same as what is on the ETACS DIY. However, all three sources of information is incorrect. I also noticed my wiring harness does not have a cargo area light wire, which on the DIY, it shows one.

Why can't Hyundai have accurate information as well as using common wire colors like everybody else?
 

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i got my info from the published schematics, and my car was consistent with them. but i wouldn't put it past hyundai to switch out wiring colors. they did that with some of the fog light wiring on the 04's.

trunk light-- pin C11, green/black. your's doesn't have it??? how does your trunk light come on then? you can also use pin A10, green/black. that's the wire that trips the trunk open icon in the instrument cluster.

so how does the shock sensor work? did you hook up the warning circuit to the horn?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
southpawboston said:
i got my info from the published schematics, and my car was consistent with them. but i wouldn't put it past hyundai to switch out wiring colors. they did that with some of the fog light wiring on the 04's.

trunk light-- pin C11, green/black. your's doesn't have it??? how does your trunk light come on then? you can also use pin A10, green/black. that's the wire that trips the trunk open icon in the instrument cluster.

so how does the shock sensor work? did you hook up the warning circuit to the horn?
My car is an 03, produced in May of 03. Tims car also is the same wiring color wise and was produced in November of 02 (as an 03 model).

I put the blue wire from the sensor, which is the main trigger to the hood pin switch. I have not added the horn setup yet, that will be another modification at a later date. I wanted to do 1 thing at a time to see how things worked.

I mounted the relay to shut off the sensor inside the hole where the ETACS is located, and that is zip tied to a yellow loom out of the way. The instructions to the sensor recommends mounting it to plastic panels or a wiring harness, which it is zip tied to a harness nearby the center console out of the way of my hand controls. I have it set so it goes off with a decent hit anywhere on the car.

I think my trunk light (I have the sedan) is hooked up to the circuit that the trunk indicator light is at. That is the only explanation I and a dealer in Renton (Lia Hyundai) can come up with. Whether they tried to simplify things or make any changes, they never told anybody about it. :wtf:

Not only this came up, but I was talking to Jay about the block of the 2.4 liter engine (I thought it was similar to the 2 liter engine block). Noooo, Hyundai decided to use a completely different block than the 2 liter block (another one of their crazy ideas). Instead of using a block that is used for several different engines, Hyundai uses a separate block for each engine, making tuning much harder. Their engine management system seems like Microsoft Windows. Both have so many holes to fill up with updates, keeping up with them is a job in itself. :eek:
 
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