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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellow elantraxd users,

I bought a 2001 Elantra GLS with 156,000 miles about 2~3 weeks ago from another college student (I'm also a college student lol) and she had used it for a year.

Her dad (who also is a mechanic at the dealership according to her) bought it from a dealership and did whatever maintenance was necessary to the car for her.

I thought she or her dad would've kept a record of maintenance and car but she said she didn't have any.

I checked out the car myself before buying and I was confident that there was nothing major wrong with the car and bought it.

I got the car checked out by a mechanic that I know at the shop and he said I got a good deal.

However, he said that the following will need to be done:

Transmission fluid flushed and changed

Power steering pump fluid flushed and changed

Upper strut and strut mounts (front)

Front and rear brake pads and rotors changed (if needed)

The mechanic said he'd do the transmission fluid and power steering pump fluid flush.

However, he's out of town and I wanted to get them done before I went out of town (250~300 miles) next week so I called a few mechanic shops.

This is what all of them said.

"If the mechanic said it smelled nasty, the chance is that it's black and burned and I don't deal with that because I have ended up with angry customers after doing the transmission fluid flush."

I asked him why and he said that "dirty transmission fluid means that it could mess up the transmission while flushing it."

I'm wondering to what extent this is true... he kept asking me if there was anything wrong with the transmission and I said no.

Well, a couple of times I have somehow put the gear in BOTH neutral and drive and when I pressed on the gas pedal, the car didn't move.

So I had to completely move it to "drive" and the car went fine.

So here are the questions,

1. After checking the transmission fluid dipstick, my mechanic said "ew that smells nasty" and told me that the transmission fluid should be flushed. I really trust him because he has helped me out before and I'm pretty sure he knows what he's doing (as he has been in the business for 30 years). However, it concerns me now that I have heard other mechanics say stuff like "you might mess up your transmission after flushing the fluid. I wouldn't do it." What is going on?
Also, I've seen some people do the transmission fluid by themselves on youtube videos and it looked really easy. Is that not recommended?


2. I have been getting horrible gas mileage. What factors are there that determine gas mileage? Would treating the car with Seafoam help?

3. From the list of the following, what are DIY jobs that I can do (I've changed an alternator and have done oil changes in my dads car)?

Transmission fluid flush
Power steering pump fluid flush
front/read brake pads and rotors
Air filter
fuel filter
fuel injector clean
spark plugs



Thank you very much for your help.
 

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yea ive been told that if you run the transmission fluid too long that it turns black, you wont see the damage until its been flushed. but if you continue it with bad fluid, then its going to end up dying on you anyway. i still dont know exactly why it works like this.

seafoam worked fine in my car. but be prepared to hear people say "never use seafoam" or "seafoam works TOO well". i ran half a can in my gas tank and the other half through the brake booster vacuum line. it defenitly cleared out the gas tank, and tons of white smoke came out of the tailpipe when i ran it through the engine. car currently works perfect and gas mileage is great. so get more oppinions and stories i guess, and youl be able to decide on your own if you wanna do it. its on sale at advance autoparts right now for 7.99 a can.

Transmission fluid flush - diy, search the forums, and decide for yourself.
Power steering pump fluid flush = diy, simple, just pump old fluid out of reservoir, add new fluid, turn steering wheel a few times to mix it around, repeat.
front/read brake pads and rotors - diy. front is simple, rear, if drums, are irritating. if your unsure, get a mechanic.
Air filter - dead easy.
fuel filter - theres a diy on the forum, check it out. i did mine.
fuel injector clean - run seafoam or lucas in your gas tank. follow instructions on bottle. simple.
spark plugs - easy and cheap. grab some ngk's platinum or irridium, get the proper spark plug socket, and change it when engine is COLD.

hope all that helps some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First, I'd like to thank you for taking your precious time reading this. Personally, I think it could've been a bit more concise. But thank you again.

I'm going to wait on the transmission fluid flush and see what my mechanic says.

I guess I'm going to try to do power steering pump fluid flush myself after searching around on the internet (or is if it's easy, do you think you could give me a detailed instruction?).

Also, what do you mean by running the half can through the "brake booster vacuum line"? Is that something I can do myself without an equipment and it has no side effects?

Brake booster vacuum line... isn't that for brakes?

Should I also change the spark plug wires with the spark plugs? Planning to get Denso PK16TT Platinum TT Spark Plug http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_pk16tt-platinum-tt-spark-plug-denso_11010037-p?searchTerm=spark+plugs <- Here

And thanks so much for the help again.
 

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doesnt hurt to get more oppinions on the transmission. im no expert by any means.

power steering flush, i had been instructed in the past as follows:
open power steering reservoir, using a pump or syphon, extract fluid from reservoir, refill with clean power steering fluid. turn on engine, turn steering wheel all the way left, then all the way right, left, right, left, right, (this will cycle the fluid in the power steering) syphon out fluid from reservoir again, and refill with clean power steering fluid. repeat the left/right turn process again, and repeat the syphon/refill a few times.

as for the brake booster line, your going to have to familiarize yourself with the car enough to identify what/where the brake booster is. (black drum looking piece on the firewall behind the brake master cylinder. the master cylinder is the metal piece below the brake fluid reservoir) You will see a little rubber vacuum hose attached to the brake booster leading to your engine/intake. this line has a vacuum suction leading to your engine, so when you pull it off the brake booster, you can slowly pour seafoam into it. ("it" being the vaccum line leading to the engine, not in the brake booster. directions are on the can) you pour about half of the can through that hose while someone presses the gas pedal to keep it revving a bit. (reccomended rpm should be on the can as well) Dont forget to replug the hose back into your brake booster. without it, your brakes will barely work, if at all. so yes, the brake booster is for your brakes.

as for spark plug wires, if you need to save money, only replace em when the wire seems bad and loses connection, resulting in misfires. if you can spare the money, then play it safe with fresh new wires. as for the plugs, i've never used denso. i've run champions, autolite, and ngk. at 29k~39k miles, the factory champion plugs were rough, especially on the highway. i ran autolites for a short time, and they were an improvement, but ended up changing them again for another reason. the NGK's seem to run the best for me, noticeably smooth engine.

any other questions or need any more clarification, just let me know. Youtube is your friend. for the most part, modern passenger vehicles like ours are all the same. they have engines, intakes, spark plugs, brake boosters, power steering pumps, etc. so check out some general how to videos, and then get an idea on how to relate it to your elantra. youl see the similarities. then we can fill in the details if something is different.
 

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i have an 01 with 152,202 on it. had it from 130 something. you can drain and fill the transmission. buy 8qt SPIII pull the drain plug and drain it. 4qt comes out so refill that than drive it a day or 2 then drain and fill again. Change the oil and put a bottle of techron in the gas tank. buy NGK spark plugs. the manual will tall you which ones. NGK spark plug wires are of the perfect length and nice and fat.. lol...

you say bad bad fuel economy. are we talking low 20s or 19 and under?

Bad O2 sensors can affect your fuel mileage. keep that in mind if no improvement after the tune up.

timing belt timing belt timing belt timing belt............. timing belt
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you so much fenixignition and incubus0111.

So here is what I am going to do for now.

I'm going to get NGK Iridium Ix Spark Plug (BKR5EIX-11), and spark plug wires that are recommended.

Going to change the air filter.

Going to run seafoam through the gas tank and the vacuum line near the brake booster (if I can locate where it is lol).

And yes, I'm getting a TERRIBLE gas mileage. I just calculated it and it came out to like 16.

Odometer says 234 or something and this is after putting a full tank (14.5 gallons) in (I had to try really hard to put 14 gallons in)

See initially, I was having a problem with the fuel gauge (or so I thought). I bought the car, the gauge was on empty so I filled it up and it wouldn't take more than 10 gallons.

The handle of the fuel nozzle kept clicking so I thought it was a faulty fuel gauge. After driving like 95 miles or so, the gas was already at 3 quarters. To test whether I was using excessive gas, I put in the fuel until some started spitting out. It took 3.4 gallons. So I thought, okay, it has a faulty gauge.

When I asked this to the mechanic I know, he said it could be that the sticky substance in the fuel tank from ethanol or something and told me to run it until I was on empty.

And I'm still not getting a good gas mileage so I have yet to figure it out what the problem is. Any thoughts or comments on this?

That's why I'm going to start with air filter, spark plug wires, spark plugs, and seafoam.

Question: Would it kill my engine to use 2 seafoam bottles? Also, a guy at the Hyundai dealership said that I could just put the Seafoam where the engine oil goes.
I'm not quite sure about that.
 

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I'm going to get NGK Iridium Ix Spark Plug (BKR5EIX-11), and spark plug wires that are recommended.
good choice.

Going to run seafoam through the gas tank and the vacuum line near the brake booster (if I can locate where it is lol).
be sure to familiarize yourself with this stuff first.

And yes, I'm getting a TERRIBLE gas mileage. I just calculated it and it came out to like 16.
like incubus said, probably o2 sensors goin bad. possibly even fuel filter.

See initially, I was having a problem with the fuel gauge (or so I thought). I bought the car, the gauge was on empty so I filled it up and it wouldn't take more than 10 gallons.
theres a filter for the air that escapes the gas tank when you fill it up. at high mileage they tend to get gummed up. first try seafoam in the gas tank. if that doesnt solve it, then you need to change that filter. i havent found a replacement one myself, but the dealer should know of it. thats the common symptom for one of those going bad. its not your gas gauge. Mine used to fill up, but the gauge wouldnt read full intil i drove it a bit. i seafoamed the gas tank, then problem solved.

Would it kill my engine to use 2 seafoam bottles?
wont kill your engine, but it might kill seals and gaskets. thats why some people think seafoam works TOO well. 2 may be okay in total, for the gas tank, crank case and vacuum lines. but id start with one.

a guy at the Hyundai dealership said that I could just put the Seafoam where the engine oil goes.
that would be an engine flush. people ive talked to feel sketchy about putting it in the crank case. my preferred "engine flush" is to change your oil to synthetic, run it for 2~3k miles, and then change it again to whatever you wanna use. A bit costly though. otherwise Gunk brand makes an engine flush that you pour in your engine, run it for some short length of time, and then change your oil. its like, 4 or 5 bucks. never used it myself.

timing belt timing belt timing belt timing belt............. timing belt
timing belt timing belt timing belt timing belt............. timing belt
 

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Seafoam is a snakeoil. Don't waste your money. Don't put it in your oil, don't put it in your gas and don't pour it down the brake fluid line.

As for the trans, I'd suggest getting the fluid changed but be prepared to have it rebuilt. Changing the fluid now may kill the trans but it will die soon anyway if you don't change it.

And in addition to changing the power steering fluid and timing belt, get the brake fluid changed as well.
 

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After driving like 95 miles or so, the gas was already at 3 quarters.
What do you mean "already." If the gauge is down to 3/4, that means you used 1/4 tank of gas: 95 miles using 1/4 tank of gas would be about 26mpg. Average on an XD.

...To test whether I was using excessive gas, I put in the fuel until some started spitting out. It took 3.4 gallons. So I thought, okay, it has a faulty gauge.
No, the gauge sounds perfect. 3.4 gallons is right about a quarter of a tank. [14.5gallon tank / 4 = 3.625 gallons per quarter tank].
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What do you mean "already." If the gauge is down to 3/4, that means you used 1/4 tank of gas: 95 miles using 1/4 tank of gas would be about 26mpg. Average on an XD.


No, the gauge sounds perfect. 3.4 gallons is right about a quarter of a tank. [14.5gallon tank / 4 = 3.625 gallons per quarter tank].
Oh I meant half way. Sorry about that. It was halfway when I had driven 95 miles but it only took 3.4 gallons before spitting out.

Just as fenixignition said, my fuel gauge doesn't go up until I drive for a bit.

And I'm getting 16~18 miles per gallon, which is terrible.

Thank you so much everyone for your input.

Also, I think I found the brake booster vacuum line which I'm supposed to run the Seafoam through, I'm going to upload an image so people can confirm that I have located it.

Is this it?

Brake booster vacuum line.jpg
 

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Yes, that's it but I advise against using Seafoam.
 

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One it doesn't fix anything. It's wasted money. Two, if done incorrectly, you could damage your engine.
 

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Just as fenixignition said, my fuel gauge doesn't go up until I drive for a bit.
This is the way it works on the XD, there is nothing wrong there. The gauge is very slow to react so you don't get the needle bopping around as the fuel sloshes in the tank.


And I'm getting 16~18 miles per gallon, which is terrible.
95 miles / 3.4 gallons = 27.9mpg?
 

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also if anything, seafoam wont magically boost your gas mileage from 18 to 26. Assuming there is carbon buildup, assuming seafoam does in fact work, and assuming that the carbon buildup is the problem, you might restore a mile per gallon. the major things are fuel injectors, spark plug gap, fuel filter, o2 sensors, tires and tire pressure, and probably a few others i am forgetting.

This is the way it works on the XD, there is nothing wrong there. The gauge is very slow to react so you don't get the needle bopping around as the fuel sloshes in the tank.
all i can really say is that i used seafoam in the gas tank and never had that problem again. so i figured the seafoam degunked something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
also if anything, seafoam wont magically boost your gas mileage from 18 to 26. Assuming there is carbon buildup, assuming seafoam does in fact work, and assuming that the carbon buildup is the problem, you might restore a mile per gallon. the major things are fuel injectors, spark plug gap, fuel filter, o2 sensors, tires and tire pressure, and probably a few others i am forgetting.

all i can really say is that i used seafoam in the gas tank and never had that problem again. so i figured the seafoam degunked something.
Yesterday, I put a full can of Seafoam in the gas tank.

Today, I ran between 1/3 and 1/2 of Seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line while having my girlfriend keep the RPM at 2000.

I had no problem starting the car and the car didn't misfire. So I don't know why some people tell other people not to use Seafoam.

I've searched on this forum and a lot of people who have had problems get problems instantly, and it seems like there's no problem for me :)

I saw a ton of smoke come out when I was doing it and I drove it for 8 miles aggressively and came home.

I'm not sure if it's the placebo effect but I really feel like the acceleration is smoother and the engine sounds smoother. After that I changed the air filter.

The next is changing the spark plugs and the spark plug wires. I hope this will help with the gas mileage.

Thanks everyone for their time and input. Especially, fenixignition. Thanks so much :)
 
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