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high idle

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3.5K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  Aintnonerd  
#1 ·
just had my 2006 elantra with 26,000 kms in to get the cam belt and accessory belts changed.
every thing seemed to be ok till i pulled over off the highway .
the car started to idle high around 1100 rpm and would fluctuate between that and a 1000 rpms.
floor mat was not under the pedal.
so i called the dealer, drove 30min back and it was already 5:00 so the mech had stepped out and would be right back.
the serv manager and owner both saw how it was running weird. it would be doing this high idle and a weird grow/rolling sound to it but then would go back to normal quiet idle off and on.
like something was kicking on and off causing it to run and sound odd. also on way back every now and then the tack would bump up and down a bit.
another thing i noticed is the sweet smell of rad fluid while it was running (hood open) not heavy but enough that I noticed.
the coolant fan was blowing it towards me.
i did notice on one hose i think was off the thermo housing looked like it had a old leak. i could see a few old green drops and another odd rusty brown splash on the hose beneath because of the top one i guess was leaking at some point before we purchased it.
weve had this car for what, a week now? I am not impressed.
I know **** happens but seems to always happen to us
 
#2 ·
Those upper leaks are common on our cars. Get a new hose and a different clamp, IMO the stock clamp causes that.

Why did you change your timing belt so early? Really not sure on the idle.
 
#4 ·
Hey thx for the replies nope no codes according to the dealer.
Hopefully it doesnt do it again. My 2007 Accent did the same thing one day , revved high then went away.
I changed my all my belts because the car is approaching 5 years old and did not want to risk being left on the side of the road with a blown belt or worse a blown belt and bent valves and no warranty to fall on...:) The book says every 48 months or 100,000 kms for the cam belt .
 
#6 ·
Well went to pick t he car up, don't worry every things fine the cars running ok we could not find a problem
so i get into the car start it, it's idling at 1000 rpms and slowly surging to 1200 and back to 1000 and sounding rough like a rrrring rolling/growling sound.
I noticed when I turn on the AC it drops down to normal idle and sounds fine and smooth as a 2.0 can be (albeit a lil rough). Called the mech out, he seemed either stumped or did not want to say something was wrong because this car ran beautiful before they got their hands on it.
He said to come back in a few weeks when my parts come in, I have a rack boot and seat track on order. They would look deeper into it then, which means i'll have to do another trip in when the parts for this problem come in. It's two hours one way to the place.
I noticed this am when my partner started it to go to work it sounded perfectly fine.. Seems to only do it when fully warmed up.
Anyways I'm going to my old dealership which is four hours away and see what they have to say.
I'm loosing faith in this 'small dealerships' servicing.
 
#7 ·
It would be worth your time and money to just take it to a real mechanic and just forget about the warranty. Most dealership mechanics are high school kids or are just out of high school kids and don't really know what the hell they are doing. I am not saying all dealership mechanics are bad, because there are good ones out there, but I took my car for warranty work 3 times and was only happy with them once. Just cause it was an easy fix. (replacing a broken drain plug on the radiator) Other 2 times was for my mirrors that never worked, and they could not fix it. They claimed to replace the switch, but I don't think they did cause then the mirrors only worked for a few days then would not move again. Took it to my normal mechanic and the problem was fixed the first time and have worked fine ever since. Only coverage I have left now is drivetrain anyway, and that is just for 8,000 more miles. Once you are out of warranty they don't really care about you anymore.