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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
sed said:
No. i'm talking about the only fuel filter on the damn car.

What YOU are talking about it is a check valve that doesn't let pressurized fuel back into the tank.

The ONLY fuel FILTER is on the pump INSIDE THE TANK. want pics?

shawn

LOL, don't blow a gasket dude. i'm just asking 'cause i never heard of a car with the fuel filter being inside the tank.

ricerrx7 said:
The fuel filter is going to cause lack of power if anything, not bad gas mileage. If it's not letting much fuel through the lines, the how are you going to use more gas?
i guess if more dirt gets through the filter, it will dirty up the injectors causing sporatic and less even spraying of fuel...causing the ECU to keep adjusting the timing tables, etc.
 

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Acountabilibuddy
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Still, being able to use less fuel shouldn't cause worse fuel mileage. Maybe there's someting I don't understand...

I go to UTI, and got student of the phase in the fuels and emmissions class. Unless my school taught me wrong a fuel filter will cause the car to run lean, and when the computer does compensate through the short term (and eventually long term) fuel trim, it will make it run correctly, not overly rich. Has she checked her air filter? And how does she drive? If she's always on the throttle then that won't help much. And what kind of driving does she do? Is her commute hilly or extreme stop and go?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
i would think that if the fuel filter is clogged then running lean would cause the computer to cut timing and richen the mixture too much. this would be less performance and less gas mileage running too rich. and with a really clogged filter and dirty injectors you're not getting a smooth injection of fuel...maybe sporatic...ontop of the ECU compensating.

and i think it takes at least a few hundred miles before the ECU is able to smooth out the correct timing and mixture...but if it's getting inconsistant fuel through the injectors, then it keeps having to change it? i was able to test this out on my 2500 mile cross country trip in 5 days. starting the trip, my Trans AM was used to 89 octane gas (got best MPG). but when i tried some 87 octane, i lost 3-4 mpg at the next fillup. i stopped every 180-200 miles and was mostly on cruise @80mph. my guess is that the PCM in my car couldn't relearn and adjust the timing tables right away.

you usually get best MPG with a lean as possible fuel mixture (w/o detonating) right?

her driving habit....is pretty crappy.....and mostly through stop and go traffic too (with a/c on). very abrupt accelleration and braking. gets worse when she's putting on her makeup....not to mention, putting every other motorists within an 800 ft radius on full defcon-5 alert....haha.
 

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Teach
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I have the Elantra SHOP MANUAL and the only filter is the one below the fuel pump, which is a bitch to change. Most fuel injection cars cannot have fuel filters AFTER the pump because the pressure is great enough to increase the risk of leakage. Normal in-line filters can handle maybe 15 psi of pressure. We have at least 40-60 psi of fuel pressure in our fuel system.

Jeffzilla said:
I live in the Seattle Tacoma are and commute back and forth frequently on I5 and average 34mpg according the the trip computer. And rutinely go over 300m/tank on my stock 02 gt with a manual.
I live in the same area and get the same mileage with the automatic transmission on my 03 EGT.
 

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19 second madman
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im pretty sure that most cars run more than 15PSI of fuel pressure.

nearly all of the new chevys and fords run inline filters
 

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My old ford contour (95) had an inline fuel filter and I believe the fuel pressure on that was around 30-40 and yes it was multiport fuel injected. btw, that car was an absolute p.o.s., will never go with ford again!
 

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The 96-98 vortec V8's run a minimum of 45psi and up to 65psi at WOT. And yes, they had external filters.

Dodge first started the in tank filter BS and the rest of the world followed suit (idiots).
When fuel pressure drops (clogged filter/bad pump) the ecm make the injectors run longer pulses, burning more fuel because of the inconsitent pressure.

Just so y'all know, I'm getting 29-32mpg with the a/c blowing and 70-80mph with about 25% in stop and go.
 

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BobMs_wht2k2 said:
Just so y'all know, I'm getting 29-32mpg with the a/c blowing and 70-80mph with about 25% in stop and go.
Lucky you I get 20 to 24 mpg but I also drive it like I stole it :D
 

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before i changed my air filter i was getting about 11mpg
when i replaced it, it jumped to about 30

now i get 21-24 *cry cry* better than 11 i guess. still gotta do some other stuff like fuel injector cleaner and tranny fluid and other shtuff.


anyone got any pointers on other stuff to get better gas mileage? injector cleaner gas treatments etc??
 

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hmmm in my 02' i can get a good 400 out of a single tank of gas..... thats combination city/highway... on the highway i've hit 250 before half a tank
 

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Aftermarket
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Cheap to pricey resolutions:

1. O2 Sensor $10
2. Fuel filter $20
3. aftermarket intake: CAI, SRI $50
4. aftermarket exhaust $100-$200
5. get a new catalytic converter $400
6. drive on the fricken highway! Pricele$$
 

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This may be a long shot, but it helped with my cars fuel economy (05 Elantra).

My rear brakes (disc type) wore out at 60,000 miles. This is the first car I have owned that used up the rear brakes before the front ones needed to be replaced. When I replaced the pads, I noted the parking brake was adjusted too tight.

Had to take the center console loose (six screws) and adjust the parking brake cable. It’s easy to do. If you have the right kind of wrench, you may be able to adjust the cables through the hole in the storage compartment at the rear of the console.

The nut you loosen up is against a bracket that connects the two rear parking brake cables to the front cable attached to the parking brake handle.

After loosening up the parking brakes, went up to 38 mpg from 33.

I drive 100 miles a day, with 80 being on the freeway, and 20 in town driving.

With my last tank of gas, went 500 miles before low fuel light came on (around 40 MPG, drove at 55 on the freeway all week)..

Good luck……

Below instructions for adjusting the parking brake are from:

http://www.hmaservice.com

Parking brake check and adjustment

Check

Pull the parking brake lever (A) with 196 N (20 kgf, 44lbf) force to fully apply the parking brake. The parking brake lever should be locked within the specified number of clicks (B)

Lever locked clicks:

Vehicle with rear disc brakes: 8~9
Vehicle with rear drum brakes: 8

Adjust the parking brake if the lever clicks are out of specification.

ADJUSTMENT

NOTE
After rear brake caliper servicing, loosen the parking brake adjusting nut, start the engine and depress the brake pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake before adjusting the parking brake.

Block the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle and make sure it is securely supported.

Make sure the parking brake arm (A) on the rear brake caliper contacts the brake caliper pin (B).

Pull the parking brake lever up one click.

Remove the console (See page BD).

Tighten the adjusting nut (A) until the parking brakes drag slightly when the rear wheels are turned.

Release the parking brake lever fully, and check that parking brakes do not drag when the rear wheels are turned. Readjust if necessary.

Make sure that the parking brakes are fully applied when the parking brake lever is pulled up fully.

Reinstall the console.
 

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Nice way to bring back a 2 year old thread!
 
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