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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car does not idle. I have to keep revving it to keep it going. I just changed the TP sensor and still nothing. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so how did you fix this.
 

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I had that problem on my Prelude, so I traided it in for a XD2 GT. The problem can't be the same b/c that car had 204000 miles on it and it was a problem with the carbs.
 

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When did it first start?
Was it right after installing the BBTB?

Check your throttle cables and make sure they are not slack.
 

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Did you install the MAF correctly?
Is the MAF defective?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
MAF is fine
No its not defective, because my car was running shittier before.
Also, changed spark plugs and wires last night. My car does not back fire anymore.
Also changed TPS and Ignition coil very recently.
Any other ideas
 

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Is it throwing a cel?
If so, take it autozone and they will read it for free.
 

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First things first... where did you buy the MAF? And DON'T GO TO AUTOZONE to have your diagnostics done. Those guys have no clue how to read them properly. Take it to a shop and have it done. The other thing it could be is the Idle Air Control motor. This controls your idle ( as the name says ). Also, how does it run if you just give it a little gas (bring it off of idle)? If it's smooth, then I would definately say it's the IAC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got the MAF from my mechanic who got it from hyundai
the next thing i was going to check was the IAC
ive got a diagnostic done thru 3 dif places
 

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04 elantra cvvt said:
And DON'T GO TO AUTOZONE to have your diagnostics done. Those guys have no clue how to read them properly.
Yeah great advice, don't go to Autozone and have them read it for free, go take to a shop and pay somebody $80 to do it for you...[/sarcasm]

Uhhhhh they don't do any diagnostics, they plug a scanner in and it does the diagnostic for you. Then, simply look the code up. If you don't trust them to look it up, then get the code and look it up yourself. Even a fvcking Autozone monkey can do that right. :rolleyes:
 

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Here is the problem with the AutoZone code readers. Say for instance that you get it scanned, and they tell you it's the o2 sensor. Okay, now why is the computer saying the o2 is bad? Could you have a leaky fuel injector, or a vacuum leak causing the car to run rich, or just a bad connection?? They can't tell you this. All they can tell you is that the o2 is bad. So when you replace it, and the light turns off for a day or so, then comes back on: you take the car back to AutoZone, and they tell you the o2 is bad. You say: I just bought it here. They give you another one, and they cycle continues. My theory is, save yourself some time and money in the long run and pay a shop $80 to FIX it. In the end, you may save the $80, but how much is your time worth to you? Sorry for the rant, but I have seen people throw parts at a car trying to fix it and spend a hell of a lot more money then if they had taken it in in the first place. :znaika:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i took my car to a mechanic they ran a diagnostic and told me it was my o2 sensor
i then took my car to hyundai they ran a diagnostic and told me it was the TPS
changed TPS and changed nothing

would a S-AFC fix this
since i think i am running rich
 

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The lesson to this story is save the $80 because no matter who is reading the code, it can still be wrong. The machine generates the then it is up to you to figure out why.

So, yeah go pay $80 for the mechanic to read a code and have him fix it. Of course, it is possible that he will get it wrong too and replace a couple parts (that cost you more from him) that don't need replacing. Meanwhile, you are still paying for those parts and the labor to do it.

So, if you go to the Zone and get a code read wrong for free and replace a part yourself that cost $100 that didn't need replacing and have to pay another $100 for a different part, you paid $200

If you take it to a mechanic and pay $80 for a code reading, then you will pay probably double for the part and an additional $150 for for labor you will still pay $300-$400 if he gets it right the first time.

Hmmmm doesn't quite add up to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
im with ya man, but im saying ive had this done and a 2 mechanics cant tell me whats wrong

could this problem be caused by a bent valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sometimes i can actually get the car to idle, sometimes and when it does it bounces from 900rpm's to 1200rps or higher. However, i have not lost any power.

does this make sense?

or could it be my timing
would a safc help

UPDATE
what im going to do for now is put the airram intake manifold on with a safc and see what happens, unless anyone has other advice.
 
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