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I've had a knocking noise for quite awhile now coming from somewhere around the engine. It only happens when I'm at a constant speed, neither accelerating or decelerating. It's also only really noticeable after about 2000RPM. I took it into a shop, the guy THOUGHT it might be a rod in which case he thought that I would have to replace the engine or the car. I'm being a bit stubborn since I'm a college student and have nothing to spare and seeing if there are any other possibilities. From what I've read, there are numerous things I can check to see if they're loose. The guy from the shop also said that if I use an even heavier oil, I could possibly get away with less knocking and stave off an (in his eyes) inevitable engine replacement. What are my chances?
 

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Okay so in my xd when I drive it normal its fine but when I start accelerating faster or higher the rpms go even when im just revving up the rpd I here like a rattling noise coming from the engine I was told it could be the lifters. Maybe if I run seafoam thru the crankcase would it quiet it down. Im hoping it could just be the lifters I did an oil change to mobile synthetic to new filter. Could it be the lifters.
 

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Found these awhile back when looking into engine cleaning/sludge removal etc. not sure if they will help you or give you any ideas but figured it cant hurt:


http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/07/cleaning-blocks-cylinder-heads/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/best-way-to-clean-cylinder-heads.388571/
http://www.yotarepair.com/sludge article.html

I've heard of some people using 0W-30 and doing a few oil changes every 500 miles then switching back to their regular choice just as a way to quickly and safely clean out the engine. I know some people have done engine flushes as well but I am very skeptical of that having any positive effect in most cases and is most likely a waste of money.
 

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Thank you sir. Is 0w-30 thicker oil & I was thinking of doing that. & my car does smoke when you give it gas I heard it could be valves piston rings but idk
 

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0w-30 actually is lower viscosity. The easy way to determine viscosity (thickness) of a motor oil is to look at the 2 number ratings (0w & 30). One is basically the visc rating for Winter conditions (hence the W) and the other under normal warm temperatures. The lower the number the lower the viscosity. Yeah piston ring issues can be one thing that may cause that. Does it give off darker smoke, a white smoke, or a bluish smoke?

Also I found this on another post elsewhere:

"The cleaning ability (especially acute cleaning) comes from it's "thin" viscosity. ie. a TSB for Mitsubishi engines which exhibit stuck valve lifters is to drain oil and fill with M-1 0-20 and run for high idle for 30 min. or something in order to clean out sludge/varnish....and then replace with regular oil..."

Take it for what its worth I do not know how accurate or effective this info is but it seems logical and goes in line with the way I was thinking. I have no experience doing it just anecdotal evidence. Note he actually used a syn 0w-20 and not a 0w-30. But others seem to prefer the 0w-30 for daily driving quick oil change intervals (500 miles).
 

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Well on my xd2 i use 10w-30 Mobil 1 synthetic with Mobil 1 filter all year. Pretty much every climate. & on my xd i think it smokes white. I just recently changed the oil on it using regular Mobil 1 5w-30 with oem filter & I did pour in rislone Additive too.
 

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If its smoking white its burning water somewhere. Could be some water/antifreeze leaking into the engine somewhere. If it was burning oil it would be darker and more bluish, not a black smoke like if it was burning too much gas.
 

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If its smoking white its burning water somewhere. Could be some water/antifreeze leaking into the engine somewhere. If it was burning oil it would be darker and more bluish, not a black smoke like if it was burning too much gas.
Are you saying leaking internally like a head gasket.? But I changed my oil no milky oil that means no head gasket. & I really gotta check it out & get into it & let me give it another look
 

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I am not saying it is definitely that but its one common possibility when you have white smoke. Although like you said it normally changes the consistency/color of the oil which it hasnt in your case. Does it smoke whenever you hit gas, or does it come and go at all? I have heard of transmission issues in automatics causing white smoke as well in some cars but I dont know enough on the subject, something about the ATF fluid being pulled in to the engine and burned somehow.
 

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I am not saying it is definitely that but its one common possibility when you have white smoke. Although like you said it normally changes the consistency/color of the oil which it hasnt in your case. Does it smoke whenever you hit gas, or does it come and go at all? I have heard of transmission issues in automatics causing white smoke as well in some cars but I dont know enough on the subject, something about the ATF fluid being pulled in to the engine and burned somehow.
I know because it didnt have milky oil when I did its oil change & I'm not sure if its white smoke I just glimpse at it I'm a have to double check again & it smokes only when I hit the gas & its a manual transmission
 

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yeah it could just be burning a little but of oil, a small amount may just look like bluish white smoke but while driving you probably wont be able to tell the difference. There would also be a distinct difference in smell between water/antifreeze burning and oil burning but you wont really be able to tell that while driving of course.
 

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Any change with your vehicle?

Most additives I believe are a scam or have very limited or particular uses so I would be careful with that. I have seen some people use certain additives/engine cleaners during oil changes, similar to what I posted earlier about the oil and extra oil filter, basically draining your oil, changing the oil filter (use a cheap filter for this part) and then adding just the additive/cleaner not any actual oil yet, let the car idle now for about 30 minutes, then complete the oil change by removing/replacing the oilfilter you just put on with the good new one, basically the first (junky one) was used to collect anything that the additive/cleaner may have unclogged from the engine. Again I honestly dont know if this will work or if there are any down sides to it (there are downsides to everything) but its worth a shot if nothing else has helped.

Good luck.
 

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No nothing has work i just found out my motor has been burning too much oil & that my HLA shims are stuck making noise im sure its too much to pay too fix it i rather just get another used motor
 
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