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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took apart my dash today around the radio and instrument cluster in my 04 hatch and now the radio, keyless entry, interior overhead light, and door marker lights don't work. I checked every single fuse with a volt meter and they have continuity. Does anybody know something that could help me out? Thanks again. And yes, I did plug the connector to the clock back in and the radio too. I just don't get why it doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The fuse for this according to the owners manual is located in the passenger compartment fuse box and I checked the fuse this morning before I left for work and it was still good. Any other ideas?
 

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This was touched upon once before, turned out to be a fuse. Please read the old thread from the Archives

Old thread
 

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yes, check out the old thread. this same thing has happened to others before. i don't have the schematic right in front of me but i do recall it being a fuse issue (despite people swearing they checked them all). if every fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box is good then check out the fusible links (big fuses) in the engine bay fuse box. IIRC, there is a 50A link that provides power to the interior fuse box.
 

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Wayne had suggested if the fuses are good, to check the power going to them. If a block (several in a line) of them is out, either a wire or fuse is blown elsewhere.

My advise: disconnect the damn battery before messing around with anything electrical. The electronics are sensitive enough and by doing it with power on will fry most electronic devises. We get people in the shop occasionally who don't have power and a few have fried their airbag and ecu controllers as a result.
 

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I have seen a lot of post reciently concerning people having electrical problems after taking the dash apart.

Do you need to leave the battery unooked and drain it like you do for a reset in order to prevent any electrical problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will check the fuses under the hood when I get home today. Also, it is NOT fuse #25 as I just changed it four times with four different fuses on my lunch break and still got nothing. And just like that post from the archive, my hazards do work, and the keyless entry works when the car is running only.
 

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I'm wondering if some of the wires were messed with? If the Keyless entry works while the engine is running, and not when the key is out, that leads me thinking that a wire is not connected in the right spot. It should work while the the engine is off, UNLESS, it also gets power from the ignition switch as well; which explains why it works when the engine is running.
 

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If other things are working, check the fuse distribution block on the driver's side under the hood, and the wiring harnesses under the dash / behind the instrument cluster. As cclngthr indicated, it could be a loose wire/connection and the most common place would be at a harness plug.
 

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southpawboston said:
the keyless should NOT work when the key is in the ignition switch. when the key is in the ignition it sends a signal to the ETACS. somehow that signal is not going to the ETACS anymore.

If it is working with the key in, that would tell me a wire is hooked up wrong or the signal source does not have power (which could act as if it were hooked up wrong).

If the key is in and things should not work, to my knowledge that should be the chime circuit (as the key is inserted, power is sent to the chime, but the closed doors would stop the power from getting to the chime itself, but still could go to the ETACS).
 

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maybe you accidentally moved a ground wire or didn't plug something bac in that acts as a ground...what exactly were you messing with in the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I checked every fuse in both fuse boxes and they are all good. I even took everything apart to double check all the connectors and it still doesn't work. I checked all my amp connections with a multimeter and they are good too. I think I fried my ETACS. BTW, all I did was unplug the chime harness and tap a wire into one of the harnesses on the front of the passenger compartment fuse box that provided switched power.
 

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You probably did. Did you disconnect the battery an hour before doing the work? SPB's DIY on tapping into the ETACS recommends this to prevent it from being fried. You could have unplugged the wrong end of the chime as well. Plug that back in and recheck it (can happen).

What I might have done is tap into the cig lighter circuit, which is switched to power up what you had installed. However, there is a amp remote lead on most aftermarket hu's that go to the amp to power it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The reason that I tapped into that wire was because the fuse blew on the cigarette lighter where I used to have the wire tapped into. I don't like hooking my amps through the headunit. I run them off a seperate switch instead. And no, I didn't disconnect the battery an hour ahead of time because I didn't know that I was tapping into a wire that went to the ETACS. Oh well, looks like a trip to the dealer for me. "I don't know what happened, everything just stopped working." :D
 

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Actually, the remote wire is a low amperage lead that trips a relay inside the amp. It pulls less than an amp to trip the relay on and off. The relay inside the amp is the high amperage switch.

What my foster son did on his amp was to run the remote lead from the headunit to a switch then to the amp. He would then be able to manually turn the amp on/off at will. Another way to hook it up is run the remote lead from the battery to the switch on the dash. When I replaced my headunit, I got the adapter and plugged that into the stock wiring harness and to the deck. On that was the remote lead to the amp, which I used. I don't like to fuck with the cars electrical system if I can help it. Any more, with all the computerized and electronic stuff in cars, damaging those is very easy.

Anytime you mess with the cars wiring, always disconnect the battery.
 

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On my headunit wiring kit, I put an inline fuse at the remote lead behind the deck. This protects the main harness from getting fried. If it did short out, it would blow that fuse.
 

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well it does appear that the ETACS is fried. and as CC said, the chime unit is controlled by the ETACS. it looks like you may have applied voltage to the lead on the chime harness that goes to the ETACS. did you try undoing everything you did?

and just FYI, there are a LOT of accesories that are connected in some way to the ETACS. interior AND exterior lighting, hazards, keyless, alarm, power windows, even the wipers. and on the 04's, add the air bag circuitry!

well, as long as there's no evidence that you spliced any wires around the ETACS or chime unit, the dealer will PROBABLY replace it. but if they trace any ETACS harnesses to some other harness that has signs of tampering, they may not replace it... i would suggest removing any custom electricals you've installed if it isn't too much trouble.

in the worst case scenario, pick up a new ETACS from jay at a discount, or give allhyundaiisuzuparts.com a call and see if they've got a used one to sell you cheap.
 
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