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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well we are doing our third Elantra short block replacement today. The reason is simply because the crank is walking a 1/8" to a 1/4". The thrust bearing on the crank is letting go on these cars allowing the crank to move back and forth as much as a 1/4".

The way to know if it has happened to your car is if you hear a tapping noise in the bellhousing when the motor is idling. In most cases the noise goes away when you increase the RPM's. Hyundai is aware of the problem and has even advised us to watch out for the same problem in the 2.7L motors used in several Hyundai vehicles.

While I am at it I may as well let you all know about another big issue with the 2.4L powertrain used in the Sonata and the Santa Fe. We have seen at least 7 cars with the 2.4L four cylinder have the following problem. The timing belts can not make it until 60,000 with all the teeth still intact. The teeth are seperating from the timing belts and in turn messing up the valves. If the belt breaks before 60,000 miles warranty pays for the repairs but if it breaks after 60,000 miles then the customer is responsible.

So if you know anyone with a 2.4L Hyundai make sure they change the timing belt at 60,000 miles to prevent them having to pay for major engine repairs.
nEW
 

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Thanks for the heads up Jay its definately appreciated.

--Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
From under the vehicle you can use a pry bar to move the dampner pulley on the front of the engine back and forth as well.

The sound just comes from the bellhousing as the bolts on the crank tap each time they go around
 

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Crapola. I've been hearing a tapping sound while idling and while in lower RPM first gear... I assume this is something covered by the powertrain warranty? At what point does it become bad enough that it should be taken in to get fixed?

The service department at my dealership is chock full of hardasses. It's like pulling teeth trying to get anything done with them. On the bright side, my wife just bought an Accent, maybe if I bring in the Hyndai survey while I talk about getting this stuff taken care of, they'll be less hesitant to provide service.
 

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Hey jay is there a tsb yet on it????If not can you Find out who I can call at HMC if my dealer dicks me around
 

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:iamwithst
Mine's not an if, it's a when. My service guy gets really upset and refers to me as "the young man here" whenever i bring him in TSBs from the net. Not happy that I'm outdoing him in knowing about Hyundai service, I suppose.
 

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Ive got some noise but Ive always thought it was a little valve clatter. Its done it sence new. Now something else to worry about whaile im gone to iraq.. great. Thanks hyundai.
 

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Ive remember reading some ware that lots of dsms have the same problem
 

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Just remebered at 30k miles when I did my UDP I had to yank on the damn thing to get it off. I noticed NO play. If it had moved the shaft I would have been disturbed. Ill listen for the noise over time to make sure it doesn't happen to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
The noise is very obvious at idle and is much more clear and precise than a valvetrain noise. Believe me my valvetrain made plenty of noise when cold and it is a much different sound. In most cases the noise will be heard at idle with a warm or cold engine (more evident warm) but under a load the crank moves enough to stop the bolt head from tapping inside the bellhousing.

Another sound that is similiar can come from the second cat when they break up. If a chunk of catalyst gets loose it will rattle around in the pipe and sound similiar. The big difference is that the crank noise is at idle and goes away with revvs and the cat noise is not at idle but noticeable when revved

Rabid, you had the same problem and should probably try to get Hyundai to reimburse you to some extent. I would start your case with Hyundai customer assistance and see where it goes from there.
 
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