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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey, has anyone done or know where to find an install for accessory pulleys? I'd like to see it please. If not, maybe I'll get a few pointers and then do one up when I install mine.
 

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4 bolts on the powersteering pulley can't remember the size of the bolts 10mm maybe. One large nut on the water pump pulley use something to hold water pump pulley in place and loosen. I think I used a screw driver to hold it in place but messed up the screwdriver. The four bolts can be a hassle as there is very little clearance to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What adjusts the tension on the water pump belt?
What torque spec does the large nut on the p/s pulley need?
 

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4 bolts on the powersteering pulley can't remember the size of the bolts 10mm maybe. One large nut on the water pump pulley use something to hold water pump pulley in place and loosen
backwards... one large on the P/S and 4 small on the water pump... but yea... they are a bitch.. use evils advice, and dont try what I did and bump the car over to get that damn single bolt off the powersteering pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Excellent, my friend has a complete air tool set, but no garage. I hope it's sunny on Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
No, the real question is, how hard is it to find the time to do this... :redface:

UPDATE June 7, 2004 I did it on Saturday, I'll post how I did it later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
No, I only did the P/S and water pump pulleys. I bought the Jspeed ones from Carbonman who bought them from Kspec. They were both designed for the grooved v belts. They were both lightweight, 1/2 the OEM weight, and underdrive, by a little bit. My camera died trying to load the film to take pictures of what I did, so I guess I'll just lay out with words.

I found a large allen key, you just need to find any suitable size piece of metal, that just barely fit through one of the OEM P/S pulley's holes, I jammed it against the pump housing and took the 19mm nut off with a 3/8" drive ratchet.

I then loosened the P/S pump belt's tensioning bolt, 14mm socket, and rotated the pump to slack up the belt and slid the OEM pulley off.

I tightened the tension nut and installed the Jspeed pulley, shoving an even larger allen key (it was more than 1/2" in diameter I think) through the pulley's holes and jamming it against the P/S pump housing. I then tightened the nut down really hard with a 3/8" drive ratchet, I don't know what the torque spec is.

I used two 10mm wrenchs to loosen off the water pump pulley bolts, the first sitting over a bolt head and the second to turn the next bolt so that when the whole pulley spun counterclockwise, the first wrench would jam against the side engine mount and stop the pulley from rotating so I could break loose the second bolt. This worked fine until there was only one bolt left, at which point I clamped the pulley with a set of vise-grips, not so hard as to damage the pulley, but just enough that I could hold the pulley still while I backed off the bolt.

I then loosened the alternator's tensioning block, 12mm wrench or socket, and rotated it fully back towards the block, I'm not sure how the best way to accomplish this is because personally I simply asked my friend Kyle, who's on par with a large gorilla, to haul it back by hand.

Now this was the only tricky part. Once the waterpump pulley comes off, there is another pulley in behind. To install everything back on:
Line that inner OEM pulley back over the key slotted shaft
Plus the new Jspeed waterpump pulley
Plus remembering to have the P/S belt over both its pulleys
And the waterpump belt over at least the crank and water pump pulley
The kicker is then trying to slid your hand into that terribly narrow space between the inner wheelwell and pulley face and thread the bolts.

Once you have the four bolts hand tight, use a 10mm wrench to tighten them as much as possible before the pulley starts spinning from the torque. Then make sure the belt is seated correctly over the crank pulley, waterpump pulley and alternator pulley. Tighten the alternator back down so that the tension is correct, the belt's deflection is within specs, I don't know the specs are, I just did it to what looked right to me. The crank keeps the pulley from moving so that you can now tighten the bolts, I believe Webtech specifies only 6-7 lb-ft of torque, but with only wrenches to work with I couldn't measure that, so I tightened them to what felt quite snug.

Then I used that large allen key to pry the P/S pump away from the block to get the proper tension on the belt and tightened it down. You can use whatever works, a prybar of some sort anyway.

I made sure everything was hooked up like it was before, the only difference being that there was two new pulleys and the tension bolts were in a different spot due to the slight underdrive diameter of these Jspeed pulleys.

I started it up to check for slippage and all was good.

The car felt the same as before as far as performance goes, the addition of the Jspeed crank pulley would probably complete the upgrade. That will happen later.

UPDATE: Make sure you re-tighten the alternator tension block bolt. I forgot to, it fell out, I had to get a new one and install it this morning. It only took two Hyundai dealerships, an hour of driving and me burning my hands on a very hot manifold a few times putting the new bolt in and retightening the alternator. I'm an idiot.
 

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I just changed my timing belt last weekend. It was the first time I'd ever done anything like that. The greatest thing that I learned was to allow the engine to move up and down in it's mounts (using a floorjack and a piece of wood) to allow you more room to work on things.

For example, for the waterpump pulley (which was a pain-in-the-ass to take off because I didn't do this) completely un-bolt the power-steering pump and reservoir. It makes a hell of a diffrence to get it out of the way. Get a floorjack and put it underneath the oilpan with a piece of wood between the jack and the pan. Support the engine. Then un-do you're engine mount (i used a 17mm air-wrench socket). Since there are three other engine mounts holding the engine up, you are free to move the engine as far as you can, and even let it slowly down and hang in the engine bay w/o support. I had the engine jacked up as high as I could to get the waterpulley off. From that vantage I could use a strap-wrench to hold the pulley and a 10mm socket w/ a 6inch extension to easily get the bolts loosened and tighetned.

REMEMBER work smarter... not harder :D
 
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