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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Rotors are warped any suggestions??

my thoughts are normaly

"it aint broke dont fix it" but in this case ive had my car for 30,000KM and warped breaks already...

yeah i admit going up and down mountains at high speed hard on the breaks in corners till they start to fade but sheeeesh shouldent they last longer?

a long time ago there was talk about Tibby rotors with our calipers with ebc Green stuff and braided lines. i was starting to think that direction...

but if theirs a better suggestion lets hear it !!


Thanks

JC
 

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Countersteer forever
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I would suggest the Tiburon big brake kit, but Jay won't be doing internet sales anymore. So if you were determined to get it, you'd have to buy the parts from your dealer instead. I think there was a certain model of the Sonata that Jay found to be a good source for the 11" rotors since they were a 4 lug pattern.

Or the KVR rotors & pads would probably be a good alternative.
 

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IMO, I would just have the rotors machined. We had this problem on the at 15k, and I machined the rotors, and put on a new set of pads (even though they were still good), and we never had another problem with the brakes.

From what I have heard, it is the material used in the factory pads that cause the rotors to warp. They retain too much heat. This is why I threw away a perfectly "good" set of pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
see this is what i was thinking.... I'm wondering maybe just get the rotors michined and buy some EBC Greenstuff pads ive heard nothing but prise by them.. maybe i'll try that route first. on auguest 7th i'm going in again for anohter round of Dynotuning and it may cost more than i want to spend.
but thanks :)

IF that doesnt work i'll be sure to try the KVR roters and pads tho they seem like an excellent Choice !!


thanks agian !!

JC
 

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how new is your car? if you still have warranty the dealership will replace them for you, you'll only have to pay for new brake pads if you need them. We have two elantra's and they both warped after 48,000 km's, my dad went the dealership route, i went to kvr, go to www.kvrperformance.com, they're cheaper than hyundaiperformance.com there are also rotor's on ebay for pretty cheap.
 

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Wait the rotors are covered by the warranty??? The 60k /100k warranty correct?
 

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Countersteer forever
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Birdman said:
Wait the rotors are covered by the warranty??? The 60k /100k warranty correct?
Yes & no. They'll be covered if the dealer you take it to considers the rotors to have worn prematurely... or if they're just in a good mood. If your car has less than 20K miles on it, you might have a decent chance with the dealer. Otherwise, you have to pay for it. If the dealer does not cover it, getting the rotors turned is actually a very inexpensive procedure. If you want to save some money on it, you can remove the rotors yourself and just hand them over to a local brake shop and get it done for around $10 or $15 per rotor.
 

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SWotrham is right. Most places don't charge much to machine the rotors. And the problem with going to the dealer to have it done is that you are going to get the same set of pads that came on it. It's not solving the problem, just prolonging it. I would recomend the Greenstuff or Raybestos, or Bendix pads. These should disipate the heat better, and stop the warpage.
 

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Try changing just the pads to a high performance pad like the KVR's or Hawk HP+ or the like, seat them properly, 10 .7g stops from 60mph to 5mph (without coming to a complete stop and normal acceleration back to 60), and the "warping" may go away after some use. Cheap, poor quality pads can break down and unevenly stick to the rotor surface causing that warped rotor feel. High quality pads can actually clean the old pad material away and the rotors themselves may be fine. Read this, it explains brakes a lot. Autobot's post over at HP.com
 

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That article explains that rotors are often misdiagnosed as warped. Of course, saving the rotor by just changing to high performance pads has to be right away when the brake shudder starts. This is the applicable part of that article
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven
friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the
vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has
never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case,
simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard
(after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to
normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of
material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting,
vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many
deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly.
Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide
abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the
condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same
reason.

The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the
discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient
at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in
process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the
grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc
wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc
and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite
is invisible to the naked eye.
 

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Usually like has been said, its pad material on the rotor itself, and not warpage. A pad with better heat properties will help aleiviate this, but so will some common sense procedures like letting the car rotate a little after a hard stop to keep the pad from staying in one place while the rotor is hot. To remove pad material, you can have them machined or sanded down slightly. They could be warped, but a machine shop can check that for you. Seem there is metal in the rotors that did not cool properly in production and there can be crystals in the metal that have different heat properties than the rest of the rotor.
 

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This would explain why I sometimes some nasty grinding sounds after heavy breaking... but later on the sound is gone.... it's just the material in the stock pads doing funky things when hot. I've had the rotors and pads checked a few times recently, but they are still fine..... and with 102k on them.... blows my mind..... not complaining though!!!
 

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Hey guys,

Is cementite actually a word?

Anyway, I've got just over 4000km on my new elantra and I get a horrible shake at anymore than about 50% pressure. Is this likely the sticking pad material. Is this really uncommon for this kind of low mileage.

Shawn
 

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ive got 30,000 miles and no problems, but I live in a flat area, and Ive probably only made very few panic stops, most of the time I just ease on and off of the brakes. but I would like to know where to pick up some greenstuff pads
 
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