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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Springs, coilovers, struts, swaybars (REAR ONLY), strut bars and metal-end links from 97-01 Tiburons or Elantras WILL fit the XDs

First things first: The infamous 2003 tiburon gt rear sway bar! From the factory most elantras have a 14mm rear sway bar. Now this is fine for those who don't wish to push their car very much but for those looking for a very noticeable difference in handling for a pretty cheap price this is for you! The tib sway bar comes in 19.2mm size. The purpose of installing a larger sway bar is to keep your back end tighter and stick better. You may reuse the plastic endlinks if you wish but its recommended that you purchase the metal ones. Part numbers provided below. This is a simple do it yourself project.

sway bar = 55511-2C000 (list $86.47)
bushing = 55513-2C110 (list. $10.59 ea)
endlink = 55530-29500 (list $29.94)

Another option that recently came up for sway bars offered by sharkracing No one has purchased these yet but they do the same job as the tiburon bar. Quote from SR regarding them: These are high quality OEM stabilizer bars that have been heat-treated and have also undergone an additional proprietary process that increases the peak load by 30% and peak stress levels by 50% over OEM levels.

SR sway bars (front and rear):$430 for both


Along with the sway bars polyurethane bushing may be purchased. Quote regarding them:Replace your worn OEM rubber bushings with these polyurethane bushings, and instantly change the way your car drives. These bushings will vastly increase vehicle stability and control, while giving you much better longevity compared to OEM bushings.

Polyurethane Bushings: (kspec and SR) $250


Next: Strut bars. A strut bar works by connecting the tops of the strut towers in the front and rear of the car. It "transfers" body roll from one side to the other when turning keeping the steering where you want it to go. The result is steering feels tighter in the front of the car. There are several strut bars that you can purchase. The ones for the GK will work on the elantra.Rear Hatchback Strut bar install
4 door strut bar install


Theres the RRM strut bar:


Sharkracing Strut bar: $85 for just the front and $145 for front and rear:


Evofusion: $55 plus shipping:


Mussa:


OEM tuscani strut bar:


Lowering the car: The purpose of lowering the car is to give it a lower center of gravity and help it handle better. The springs the car comes with from the factory are not very stiff so installing stiffer springs helps you to handle better. As an added bonus the lower center of gravity helps you when braking because you won't nose dive as badly. You have two choices for lowering: springs or coilovers. Springs are a one time thing. Once installed your car always sits lowered unless you switch them back to stock. Coilovers are adjustable so that you can increase the stiffness of the ride and your ride height whenever you so chose. Coilovers are much more money because of that adjustablity. When lowering the car you might also chose to replace your struts. OEM tib gt struts are much stiffer than the oem elantras and help with rebound. Now for some pics of people sporting various springs. Spring install DIY. Would Probably cost $300-$400 if done at a shop.

Springtechs (can be had on ebay): $100 + shipping A quick Note about the springtechs: they are designed for the J2 platform so that back springs will be smaller than the perch they rest on. THIS IS NOT A PROBLEM!!! DO NOT START A THREAD ABOUT THIS! there are many members using these springs for long periods of time and they've yet to have problems.


B&Gs (on various sites ex. evofusion): $205


Drop: 1.5" rear, 2.0" front

H&Rs: $284.05


Drop: 1.3" front 1.4" rear

Eibachs:$269.13


Drop: 1.2"

Arospeeds(ebay and andysautosport.com): $176.18 (on andy's)


Drop: 3" (once settled)

B&G coilovers:$800:


Tein Coilovers (designed for the tiburon): $1500:


KW coilovers(designed for tib):$1572


Springs designed for the tiburon also work on the elantra. for instance tein springs: $231.61 :


For information on the clearances you have with different springs: Be sure to check out this thread!

For a good read about suspensions: Clicky!
 

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Cypher said:
I was Thinking since there are stickys for exhaust and intakes in the N/A section so why not a thread for suspension info?

First things first: The infamous 2003 tiburon gt rear sway bar! From the factory most elantras have a 14mm rear sway bar. Now this is fine for those who don't wish to push their car very much but for those looking for a very noticeable difference in handling for a pretty cheap price this is for you! The tib sway bar comes in 19.2mm size. The purpose of installing a larger sway bar is to keep your back end tighter and stick better. You may reuse the plastic endlinks if you wish but its recommended that you purchase the metal ones. Part numbers provided below. This is a simple do it yourself project.

sway bar = 55511-2C000 (list $86.47)
bushing = 55513-2C110 (list. $10.59 ea)
endlink = 55530-29500 (list $29.94)

Another option that recently came up for sway bars offered by sharkracing No one has purchased these yet but they do the same job as the tiburon bar. Quote from SR regarding them: These are high quality OEM stabilizer bars that have been heat-treated and have also undergone an additional proprietary process that increases the peak load by 30% and peak stress levels by 50% over OEM levels.

SR sway bars (front and rear):$430 for both

Along with the sway bars polyurethane bushing may be purchased. Quote regarding them:Replace your worn OEM rubber bushings with these polyurethane bushings, and instantly change the way your car drives. These bushings will vastly increase vehicle stability and control, while giving you much better longevity compared to OEM bushings.

Polyurethane Bushings: (kspec and SR) $250
Excellent write-up. I have a few comments, mostly on the sway bar. For clarification, the stock sway bar on the GLS sedan is 13 mm; I just changed out Paki's at last week's meet and a 13 mm wrench fit over it easily. On GTs and 5-door GLSs, the bar is more like 15 mm (i.e., 14 mm wrench does not fit).

If you get a sway bar from the dealer or an owner of a Tibby, know that Hyundai distinguishes between 19 mm sway bars (the "gold standard") and 18 mm sway bars (almost as good) with a paint mark at about the halfway point of the bar. Green = 19 mm; Yellow = 18 mm. This is a more relaible indicator of the size than the part number; apparently the folks at the warehouse don't really distinguish between the two. If you order the 19 from the dealer, MAKE SURE it has the green mark on it. (I got the wrong one and luckily the dealer was willing to exchange it more than a month later. Out of three sway bars I saw during this process, two of them came from the warehouse with incorrect part numbers- one -2C000 with a yellow mark and one -2C100 with a green mark.)

If you have a hatchback Elantra, I highly recommend the 19 mm sway bar. If you have a sedan, the 19 is great, but the 18 is probably good enough. The hatchback is heavier than the sedan and most of that extra weight is in the back, so the bigger bar is really needed for the hatch.

Plastic end links: I don't think there is definitive data that says whether or not they are acceptable with the 19 mm sway bar. On the one hand, I've seen no information that says the plastic links are any weaker than the metal ones and have heard of no plastic end link failures related to the 19 mm bar, even with a lot of miles on them. On the other hand, I'm pretty sure every 19 mm bar Hyundai put in a car happened to be connected to metal end links. I think this is more a factor of timing than load requirements; when Hyundai was putting them on the 03 Tibby, they were still rolling out plastic end links and didin't have them on all cars yet. I believe all their cars with sway bars similar to ours now have the plastic end links.

Metal end links: If you're going to buy metal end links, I would not recommend buying them used unless the car you got them from had very few miles on it. The end links have ball joints in each end that are subject to wear. Because they are a wear item, though, you don't have to pay dealer prices; you can buy end links for our cars at autoparts stores. I've found prices per end link ranging from $11 to $22 depending on the store and the supplier. There are two suppliers of end links I am aware of, Moog and TRW. In both cases though, the parts themselves are made by Moog (my end links came in a TRW box and have Moog markings). The part numbers are:
Moog = K90360
TRW = 18343

For non-Hyundai rear sway bars, I'm not sure it is worth getting one. In the quote above: "These are high quality OEM stabilizer bars that have been heat-treated and have also undergone an additional proprietary process that increases the peak load by 30% and peak stress levels by 50% over OEM levels." It says that the stress and load levels (both indicators of strength) are higher than the OEM parts, but says nothing about being any stiffer. And even if they are stiffer, I don't know if that does us any good, since there are some stories of people putting 22 mm bars on Elantras and even Tibbies, and the tabs attaching them to the struts breaking off. I think 19 mm is about as stiff as you want to go unless you want to modify your struts.

And one general comment regarding urethane bushings: They tend to be noisy and creak. They need lubrication moreso than the stock rubber bushings do.
 

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A few pics I haven't shown here before; I just got around to uploading them.

Sway Bar Comparison

First, a little discussion of the whole part number and color marking thing. We've talked about this a lot but I think people who haven't seen the color marking before could be confused and I've never seen any pictures before now. Here are 3 Sway Bars; two with bad labels:



From left to right, a yellow-marked bar sold to me as a 19 mm 55511-2C000 (is really 18 mm bar that should have been marked 55511-2C100); green-marked bar labeled as 18 mm 55511-2C100 (is really 19 mm 55511-2C000 bar); green-marked 19 mm bar correctly marked as 55511-2C000.

Comparsion of Installed Plastic and Metal End Links

This is what the end links look like, as viewed with the rear wheel removed.





Note on the bottom picture, in the middle of the gold face at the bottom of the end link, there is a grease fitting. The metal end links do require lubrication.

End Link Side-by-side Comparison

A couple pics showing the differences between metal and plastic end links.





Note in these pics, the grease fittings have not been installed yet.

Metal End Link

A picture showing the metal end link.



TRW Part No. 18343; Moog Part No. K90360. Note hex flats on inset of end for 14 mm hex.
 

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STRUT OPTIONS

OEM:
-Elantra Struts (01-06)
-Tiburon Struts (03-07)
*Ultrasport struts were installed in '03 GT models (Best for handling, but too rough for your typical everyday driver)
*All other Tiburon years/models use less firm struts

Aftermarket:
-KYB GR2 (good option for stock replacement or for Eibach Pro-Kit springs) part numbers: 333205,333206, 333500, 333501
-Tiburon Eibach Struts (designed for lowering) part number: 4220.840
-KYB AGX (fronts only) part numbers: 733020, 733021
-Tiburon KYB GR2 part numbers: 333508, 333509, 333510, 333511 (As good as Ultrasports in terms of handling & more cost-effective)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Since people seem to have problems with NOT posting anything other than informative suspension info, I'm locking this thread. If you happen to have something that you think is worthy of being added. PM me.
 
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