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Okay so i'm ready to do my head gasket and water pump on my car now. My main concern is that if I set #1 an #4 piston at top dead center as I have done on all 4cyl, okay so when I start to take off the timming belt will the cams spin outta control or will they stay right where they are? Reason I'm putting a new head gasket on the car is because it seems to be leaking oil where the bottom end meets the head, I ran full synthetic threw it for like a week and found all kinds of oil leaks, I now have castrol 5w30 in it an it seems to be taping alittle on the intake side it didn't do that unroll a few miles after I changed out the synthetic oil can someone please explain the easyest way to take the timming belt off and head so I can replace them as well as the water pump, I'm thinking maybe that's why it heats up so quickly because the water pump is not working corectly but it is not over heating. Anyways I need help with changing timming belt and head gasket and water pump, thank you guys very much and awaiting a response on my web page so I can print it out, thank you
 

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Update
$375 out the door all belts included.

Then he says that unless I do the tranny flush every 30k either through them (or by buying genuine Hyundai tranny fluid to do it myself), if something happens to the tranny, it will not be covered by the warranty!
:eek2:
Years ago I was on a Jeep forum and the consensus was as long as you documented it all (and did it right) companies cannot void a warranty just because they did not do the work themselves. I mean,come on, it's just fluid exchange!

They had me until they said this junk........:headshake:
 

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My question here is that the first pic has the cover's for the engine block off already, and the belts exposed. SO how do you get the plates/covers off the engine to access the timing belts?

Other than that one question, great article.
 

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I recently changed the timing belt of my 2003 Elantra. The most difficult job was removing/ reinstalling a water pump pulley. There is only 2 inch wide space and it was almost impossible to maneuver to unbolt/ bolt the four 10 mm bolts in the pulley. The water pump pulley has actually two pulleys. one is connected to power steering pump. This time I didn't change the water pump and idler pulley because the dealer recommends to change them at every other timing belt change. The old timing belt was only 65,000 miles on it, but still it looked pretty good. I guess it will last another 30,000 miles. I changed the timing belt anyway. The old timing belt had Hyundai logo on it. But it was made in Japan! My new timing belt is from Gates. Gates company claims that their timing belts are OEM belts, not OEM replacement. It is said that Gates supply timing belts to Porsche, BMW. It is my understanding that the timing belts used by Toyota and Honda are same belts as Hyundai belts. The bottom line is that: while Toyota and Honda recommends to change their timing belts at 105,000 miles, why Hyundai insists on changing at 60,000 miles? They use same timing belts manufactured by I guess Gates in Japan!
 

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Sweet Mother, getting the crank bolt to 130 ft lbs is killing me. I tried locking the cam pulley in place but the belt is too elastic to get 130# torque on the crank. The starter... I can not even see it. Got my hand on it but can only get one bolt loose, the second bolt is mission impossible. How important is 130#? My torque wrench had not be used for a while so I got 30# then 70# before moving the setting to 130#; I've got about 100# on it.
Worked on the thing this afternoon, going to sleep on it and get up about 5:30 to start again. Maybe the fresh start will help.
Thanks for any ideas on holding the crank pulley.
It's a 2006 2.0L.
Red
 

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I did the timing belt change this weekend and after buttoning everything back up the engine makes a high pitch tone which is noticible at varying engine speeds. I loosened the accessory belts and had no reduction in the sound. I've seen other postings about the timing belt making a similar noise if it is over-tensioned. Does anyone know of an easy way to determine how tight the TB should be? The HMA website instructions are nice, but useless unless you have a tensiometer "When the tension side of timing belt is pushed horizontally with a moderate force [approx. 2kg (20N, 5lb)], the timing belt cog end sags in approx. 4 ~ 6mm (0.16 ~ 0.24in.)"
 

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has anyone had any problems getting the timing belt tight agian after removing old one. ive tried 2 new tensioners and 2 new belts but still end up with way to much slack in the timing belt. ive been stuck for weeks. Someone please help, im stumped. any hints/tips are needed , thanks, IRISH
 

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well i found out why i was having problems. turns out the new/used engine im putting in is a 1.8l instead of a 2.0l like i was told it was. so i got a 1.8l belt and i tightend just like it should. ive been warned that i might not pass smog after we get the 1.8l in. does anyone know of any obsticles i might encounter by putting a 1.8l engine in place of a 2.0l . thanks
 

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Got mine done today by Only1db in a lil under an hour despite a toasty engine. :tongue: Wasn't at the mileage mark yet, but was past the timeframe mark. So I got him to do it. Better deal with him than payin $350 to the dealer and having to wait an hour for your car to even get pulled in.
 

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Got mine done today by Only1db in a lil under an hour despite a toasty engine. :tongue: Wasn't at the mileage mark yet, but was past the timeframe mark. So I got him to do it. Better deal with him than payin $350 to the dealer and having to wait an hour for your car to even get pulled in.
I'll drink to that. He's a beast.

Plus, it's nice to hang out and watch and learn rather than sit in a waiting room with stale coffee and People magazines from 3 years ago.
 
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