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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
[email protected] not to bad with the light mods ive done. Stock I was guessing [email protected] Im happy. 60ft is what killed me.. need better tires/something to stop that horrible weight transfer. Axle hope was very low.. just couldn't lock up. With a better suspension and tires, Id say 15.8-16.1 easy. Only other thing i did wrong was misgauge my fuel economy. So when I got to the track I still had half a tank... damn exhaust and udp drove my mpg way up.. Even running the a/c half way to the track couldn't burn it fast enough. :rolleyes: I might have run a 16.4.... MAYBE a 16.399 with less fuel. R/ts where in the .110-.040 range tonight.. with one .300 for some reason If i dont see the tree start it screws me all up.
 

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can you post your slip or list your 60' times? Did you reset your ECU? Manual right? I ran a 16.5 with just intake/exhaust just want to compare the slips.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I would have done better but im turning a 60ft time of 2.5. Tires on it right now are for thread life.. not drag racing. Yokohama Avid Touring. No I didn't reset the ecu. Also the track is an over an hour away and the car never cooled off. Im just running a wai and a catback only. Your running full cai and full exhaust. What was the track conditions of your run? How much gas did you have? What track did you run on.. NHRA or a parking lot track? Thos things can effect the times. Im sure with better conditions and less fuel I could pull lower 16s as is. The car on my 16.5 slip normally runs a 16.3 but it was hot and not humid etc. With suspension work and tires I think itll go into the 15s.

After reading a bunch of archived stuff I should have reset the ecu.. blah.. O well. Ill try again later :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
When ive run with almost bald tires they seem to do better. Well better than almost new tires like I have on it now. Your not trying to move water out from under you. The stock tires may have been better than the tires I have now. The yokos I have were made for longevity not drag racing. Im a copier tech.. I need tires that will last.
It was near 80 degrees when I ran, so at 68 I might have been able to pull a little better. It would have also helped my freakin engine cool down after that drive to get to the track. Like I said before my xd stock wasn't much if any faster than my accent. I would have put it near 17secs. Not all hyundais are made equal. I learned that running after running 3 accents at the same track. One was 16.8 (mine) another 17.4, then 17.1, and another that wasn't on the track but all three of those are faster than it. (btw those are best runs to date) My old accent was built on the day the boss was in.. my elantra must have been built on a monday.. heh. I dont think your automatic is normal. Most run alot slower than that.


http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=50354
 

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Was just looking at the 16.5-16.6 slipsI have. I was running anywhere from a 2.45 to a 2.6 60ft This was just with CAI and Catback. Thanks for posting up your 60's so I could compare. Next time you go definately reset the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What 60ft are you at now? I think a CAI would make a huge, .2 or so.. guess thats huge with n/a mods, diffrence in times... one big reason is the drive to get to the track. By the time I get there the engine hot and stays that way. I need to be able to pull cooler air in or get a hood scoope. Also getting some mandrel bent piping for the exhaust would also help or a free flow muffler. I really dont want a canister or that raspy sound. Money was the only reason i went with crush bent. No one here has the pipe bending equipment so it would have to have been special ordered. The only thing I have over you at that time was the pulley.. and IMO it did the least of my mods. Not saying they didn't do anything, but was the only thing i somewhat regretted spending 200 bux on. It did however increase my mpg more than anything else, esp running the a/c. The short shifter didn't do much other than make it easier to shift fast. With me not having the clutchless shifting down I could shift stock just as fast as I can now. Its just ALOT easier and feels alot better now with the B&M. The other stuff was free and worth maybe a few horses. Wires and the tb heater bypass thing can only do so much. Ill try the ecu thing. With my accent it hurt me.. guess its diffrent with beta.

The next thing I drop money on is gonna be suspension. Im happy with the way the engine runs now. Just need to be able to turn and start faster. Must stop the weight transfer.. I miss rwd. After that ill work on forced induction. Money is short so I'll also have to wait for another income tax return to try anything like a turbo.
 

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I run a 2.1 60' ft now that's with DRs. On the 17s the best I could pull was a 2.3. The underdrive pully on my car was good for about .2-.3 in the 1/4. I have it off now due to my not putting it on correctly and it fucking up the key on the crank. The best I ever got out of the car was a 15.523.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
it was some old wagon thing... it had a turbo. Other than that I have no idea. Only thing I do know it was one hell of a sleeper.. to include when he was sitting at the light.
 

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Super Hero
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Here's my best time for my first ever drag in the Elantra

Milan Dragway NHRA strip.

55 degrees outside

250 cars running 4 time trials and then bracketed.

Lots of debri on track
Lots of glue from kiddy dragsters

header/complete exhaust 2.25in
underdrive pulley
SRI/ cold air fed
16X7 205/50 Kumho KH11's at 25psi in fronts
h&r springs
bosch +4's

.702 reaction time
2.564 60ft
6.982 330ft
10.593 1/8 mile e/t
67.97 1/8 mile mph
13.704 1000ft
16.315 1/4 e/t
86.37 mph
 

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06 GT Silver 5M
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59 Posts
Wait, you mean with the right mods to the motor an auto can still go fast, no manual shifting with it right?
 
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