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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, maybe this isn't strictly appearance, but the spoiler is, which is why I'm donig this, so here it is:

I just got finished installing a gas strut in the trunk. Those torsion bars can't even hold my trunk open, let alone the weight of my trunk, the spoiler, and the solenoid I'll be putting on for remote operation. Plus I want it to open fully when I hit the remote to open it. I got the strut in place, with two minor problems. 1. I can now use the trunk as a catapult. 2. The side that the strut is on sticks up from the force of the strut pushing on it. The strut is not bottoming out, it's just powerful. I've read that after some time, the strut will weaken enough to make this go away... ideas? Attached are some pictures of the install, and gap.
 

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No suggestions, but if you ever get cut off, stuck in traffic, or just need amusement you have a great catapult! (Use road kill on convertibles, it would just be funny.)
 

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i def would not have mounted it that way, you should have taken the bars off, made new hinges and used the strut like most cars do, to the lid not the bars.

my .02

shawn

nice idea though
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yea, that way sounds good, but with more modification than I had in mind. I have a new idea. I think I am trying to be too high-tech about this. I'm going to the hardware store and picking up a pair of light-duty springs. Some that will be just strong enough to hold up the lid, without the catapault feature.
 

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if you change the mounting point for the strut on the trunk hinge, it will have less leverage and won't catapult the trunk as much. if you mount it higher up along the curve of the hinge (closer to the rubber bump stop), it won't be able to exert as much leverage on the trunk lid. also like mentioned above, try removing the factory torsion rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Southpaw, if I move the strut to your suggested position, do you think it will also reduce the gap it creates when the trunk is closed? That's my main concern - the catapault is not too bad. As far as the factory torsion rods, they might as well not be there, they are TERRIBLE. They were pretty good when I got the car, but I almost need to hold my trunk open now. Since I got it repainted (keyed) they took everything apart and sprayed it, since then it just wasn't the same.
 

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once the torsion bars are off the car you might as well throw them out...

I really think you should think about redoing that, you might be doing perm. damage to the sheet metal by having it at that angle... Take out the torsion bars, hack off the hinges, have a shop weld them on with small brackets and use your gas strut.... It will work i promise

shawn :)

oh you might need brackets like i was talking about though...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm not doing any damage at the moment. I took the strut off after I took the picture, it's just laying in my trunk right now. It's nothing to put it back though. Before I get far into fabrication, cutting and welding I might try those good old fashion springs I spoke of.
 

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hyunelan2 said:
Southpaw, if I move the strut to your suggested position, do you think it will also reduce the gap it creates when the trunk is closed? That's my main concern - the catapault is not too bad. As far as the factory torsion rods, they might as well not be there, they are TERRIBLE. They were pretty good when I got the car, but I almost need to hold my trunk open now. Since I got it repainted (keyed) they took everything apart and sprayed it, since then it just wasn't the same.
unfortunately i don't predict my advice of moving the strut mount will help too much with the gap. might, but probably not. since you mentioned that the body shop took everything apart and it hasn't been the same since, i'm wondering if they didn't "wind up" the torsion rods enough when re-installing them. it's a PITA, you have to insert one end of the rod, then torsion it quite a bit (sometimes one or two full revolutions) before locking the other end in place. if they didn't rotate it enough it won't have enough torsion. just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's a good idea Southpaw. HMAservice mentioned something about needing a special tool for those torque bars, is this necessary? I might give this a try, then Springs, then finally SEDs idea of heavy modification to the trunk assembly.
 

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i bashed my hands pretty badly torqueing those trunk lid bars on an old subaru, in fact i think i never got them in right because it was always weak afterwards, ha! my XD is a 5-door, so i wouldn't know how yours are supposed to be torqued, or even what they look like specifically. maybe your dealer could take a crack at it for a reasonable price (1/2 hour labor?), especially if there's a specialized tool that needs to be used.
 

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The XD torsion bars will NEVER be the same, the are torqued at the factory to 100 - 150 ftlbs....

You will not get them to be the same, ever, I don't care what kind of tools you have, I have seen hyundai techs work on them for HOURS and then say forget it, let them worry about it. They are not high quality and I have seen them break at the seams when they were worked to get them back to spec.

I am not sure how springs are going to hold up the door... maybe its just me but I can't see how that would work

shawn :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
SPRINGS WORKED! I stopped by the harware store and bought 2 springs at 2.28 each. They will raise the trunk all the way open, without the catapault effect, and without raising the trunk. I'll have some pics up shortly (I'm at work and need a convienient time to upload pictures). Total Cost was less than $5, and 3 minutes of work, only tools needed were pliers. You can see the one side attached, the other side is on the outer portion of the torsion bar, so it pulls the bar out, and the trunk lid up.
 
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